Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: August 29, 1981 Mark Smedley, Eric Rhicard, Dave Larsen
Page Views: 645 total · 16/month
Shared By: CodyE on Aug 3, 2015
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Pitch 1- 5.9 Climb 30 feet of broken rock into a beautiful finger crack. Follow the varied finger crack up until it is possible to work right on crack and face holds to a stance and a 2 bolt anchor. 150ft

Pitch 2- 5.10b Stem your way up the corner using the leaning crack on your left for protection. Traverse left at a horizontal crack (good pro) into the next crack. Follow this corner of beautiful finger and hand jams to a 2 bolt anchor. 160ft

Pitch 3- 5.9 Appears to be another typical Devils Tower wide summit chimney.

Rap the route with 2 ropes

This is a great route with amazing climbing. The first pitch can be a little mossy but it only pads your fingers in the amazing jams. This route was cleaned July 2015

Location

This route is one crack right of Belle Fourche Buttress. It weaves in and out of an older aid line Two Left Shoes put up by Jim Beyer in 1978

Protection

Double rack with extra in the finger size

Photos

- No Photos -
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Glad to see this is getting some attention. I spent a day cleaning out the cracks while Smedley and Larson were at work. I was filthy dirty but knew I had unearthed a route worth doing. I hope it gets enough traffic to keep it clean. Oct 17, 2015
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
 
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
 
This route deserves more traffic. It's got really varied, challenging, and fun climbing. I thought it's a bit of a sandbag, the 2nd pitch is maybe more like 10c/d but it takes plenty of good gear, just lots of small cams in the first half and then 2nd half takes a good number of .75 camalot and other finger sizes up to #1, maybe 1 #2 camalot. 2nd pitch anchor was replaced 10/25/2016. May 26, 2016
George Wilkinson
Boulder
 
George Wilkinson   Boulder
 
There really is a classic route hiding under all the lichen!! Great movement throughout the first two pitches and a grand chimney exit. Having done El Matador the day before I would definitely say this was harder... I thought pitch 1 was more like a 10a and pitch two 10d.

I started P2 on the arete to get gear in the crack and cranked through desperate pinscars till you can make a stem across the corner, my buddy came up the corner on second and said it was much easier but it'd be difficult to see your gear placements from there.

Great hidden route! deserves more love for sure May 4, 2018