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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maid in the Shade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectator Sport T A2-
Stepping Out of Flatland T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: August 29, 1981 Mark Smedley, Eric Rhicard, Dave Larsen
Page Views: 508 total, 18/month
Shared By: CodyE on Aug 3, 2015
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Pitch 1- 5.9 Climb 30 feet of broken rock into a beautiful finger crack. Follow the varied finger crack up until it is possible to work right on crack and face holds to a stance and a 2 bolt anchor. 150ft

Pitch 2- 5.10b Stem your way up the corner using the leaning crack on your left for protection. Traverse left at a horizontal crack (good pro) into the next crack. Follow this corner of beautiful finger and hand jams to a 2 bolt anchor. 160ft

Pitch 3- 5.9 Appears to be another typical Devils Tower wide summit chimney.

Rap the route with 2 ropes

This is a great route with amazing climbing. The first pitch can be a little mossy but it only pads your fingers in the amazing jams. This route was cleaned July 2015

Location

This route is one crack right of Belle Fourche Buttress. It weaves in and out of an older aid line Two Left Shoes put up by Jim Beyer in 1978

Protection

Double rack with extra in the finger size

Photos

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Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
 
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
 
This route deserves more traffic. It's got really varied, challenging, and fun climbing. I thought it's a bit of a sandbag, the 2nd pitch is maybe more like 10c/d but it takes plenty of good gear, just lots of small cams in the first half and then 2nd half takes a good number of .75 camalot and other finger sizes up to #1, maybe 1 #2 camalot. 2nd pitch anchor was replaced 10/25/2016. May 26, 2016
Glad to see this is getting some attention. I spent a day cleaning out the cracks while Smedley and Larson were at work. I was filthy dirty but knew I had unearthed a route worth doing. I hope it gets enough traffic to keep it clean. Oct 17, 2015