Type: Trad, Aid, 140 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman and Kyle Rott 6/22/09
Page Views: 761 total · 7/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


A fun and casual line up the fracture seam on the face between Buckspeck and Calculus Affair.
Start at the same spot as Buckspeck and easily free climb right past some vegetation into the dihedral just right of its arete. Switch into aid mode and tack up the dihedral on bomber placements for about 25'. Move left out onto the steeper face on a couple thin placements and into the seam proper. This seam goes through many sizes and offers a great stretch of clean aid mixed with a couple pin placements until a pod is reached which takes bomber cams (#1 and #.75 BD). Above the pod it's great birdbeakin' for a ways until more good clean placements take you to the belay for Buckspeck.
The last part of the climb is just around the corner from the upper slabby arete on Buckspeck, and one could feasibly bail out onto that, but the aiding is great all the way to the top! An easy variety pitch with some thin spots, but these are never too far above bomber gear and always lead to better placements soon.


The clean fracture crack on the face just right of Buckspeck. Start in the dihedral just left of the first pitch of Calculus Affair until moving into the upper fracture seam is feasible.


Double set of cams and stoppers through #1 BD, offset brass nuts handy, blue-yellow and yellow-orange offset TCUs, 10 #1 beaks, 5 assorted blades #1-#5, 5 LAs mostly #4 size or so, 1 big hook handy but not necessary.


Cool Trevor! nice work on that, glad to see you get some pin work in!


patrick Jun 24, 2009