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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maid in the Shade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectator Sport T A2-
Stepping Out of Flatland T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 140 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman and Kyle Rott 6/22/09
Page Views: 703 total, 7/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A fun and casual line up the fracture seam on the face between Buckspeck and Calculus Affair.
Start at the same spot as Buckspeck and easily free climb right past some vegetation into the dihedral just right of its arete. Switch into aid mode and tack up the dihedral on bomber placements for about 25'. Move left out onto the steeper face on a couple thin placements and into the seam proper. This seam goes through many sizes and offers a great stretch of clean aid mixed with a couple pin placements until a pod is reached which takes bomber cams (#1 and #.75 BD). Above the pod it's great birdbeakin' for a ways until more good clean placements take you to the belay for Buckspeck.
The last part of the climb is just around the corner from the upper slabby arete on Buckspeck, and one could feasibly bail out onto that, but the aiding is great all the way to the top! An easy variety pitch with some thin spots, but these are never too far above bomber gear and always lead to better placements soon.

Location

The clean fracture crack on the face just right of Buckspeck. Start in the dihedral just left of the first pitch of Calculus Affair until moving into the upper fracture seam is feasible.

Protection

Double set of cams and stoppers through #1 BD, offset brass nuts handy, blue-yellow and yellow-orange offset TCUs, 10 #1 beaks, 5 assorted blades #1-#5, 5 LAs mostly #4 size or so, 1 big hook handy but not necessary.

Photos

Cool Trevor! nice work on that, glad to see you get some pin work in!

cheers,

patrick Jun 24, 2009