Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Sam Magro and Pat Kingsbury September 2008
Page Views: 1,922 total · 16/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Oct 9, 2008
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

An excellent anomaly that Pat aptly characterized as, "the average man's Animal Cracker Land". Unlike the typical Tower corner, this one follows an elegant wavy fracture crack up a vague prow. It's easily identified by the large lower pod, reminiscent of a Yosemite feature. The crack opens and closes throughout, providing big moves between sinker locks. Start on the lower crack of Dump Watt, cut right into the big pod, exit this and stem a bit up the corner to the right (Marriage Was my Worst Mistake), before being forced to commit to the fracture crack entirely for some cruxy pulls, and exit left on faceholds into the final 20' of Dump Watt to beefy, brand-new anchors. Thought-provoking, sustained, and surprisingly steep--this is a very unique pitch for the Tower with a distinct character!

Location

The wavy fracture crack between Dump Watt and Marriage Was My Worst Mistake. Two cracks right of the direct start to Belle Fourche.

Protection

Double set of stoppers and cams through #3 camalot. One C4 #4 camalot. A few long runners for the lower section.

Photos

TomKingsbury  
 
i thought it was .10++ haha

very good route though....highly suggested!

cheers,

patrick Oct 10, 2008
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11a
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11a
ha, yeah they really need to add that option in the ratings list... although I just now remembered we'd all agreed on .9+ as seeming fair... Oct 11, 2008