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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maid in the Shade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Path Through Enlightenment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2-3
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectator Sport T A2-
Stepping Out of Flatland T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Nate Postma & Dan Meyer, 1989
Page Views: 458 total · 10/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Nov 3, 2014
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Contrived sport route with fun movement on good edges. Climb the 1st pitch of Witchie then exit left, half-way up the 2nd pitch, to belay anchor under roof. Climb left around the roof into shallow corner. Continue stemming and face climbing while reaching out right for the bolts on the arête. Wander out on to the arête occasionally. Place a .4 camalot after the 8th bolt. All the hardware is in excellent condition.

Location

This is the bolt line on the arête immediately left of Witchie's 2nd pitch. Rap down Witchie or straight down to another set of nice Metolius Rap Hanger anchors (not sure what route this is?). The latter choice will involve scrambling back up to your packs.

Protection

11 bolts
single finger size cam
Metolius rap hanger anchors

Photos

Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.11
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.11
Originally given 12a, but I thought Everlasting was much harder than this. Would have been a better climb if the crack was utilized more for gear and the bolts weren't out of the way, trying to force an arête climb. Nov 3, 2014
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.11
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.11
Spoke with Nate Postma a while back about his route and apparently it was not documented correctly. This is actually a 3 pitch climb! Guidebooks only describe the 3rd pitch. Which makes sense, since there is a nice looking line leading up to the 3rd with bomber anchors. The 2nd pitch, I believe, has a large flake that looks and sounds sketch. But Postma says they couldn't get it come. I'll update this route once I climb the full line. Nov 21, 2015
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
What's with the mess of 3 metolius rap anchors within about 10 feet of each other on I'm guessing the 2nd pitch?

Top roped the 3rd pitch after climbing Witchie and it was pretty good. I thought one part felt about 11+ or 12a where the feet disappear. Sep 30, 2017

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