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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maid in the Shade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectator Sport T A2-
Stepping Out of Flatland T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Dennis Horning, Judd Jennerjahn '75
Page Views: 20,217 total, 109/month
Shared By: Barrett Cooper on Sep 6, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

An amazingly continuous hand crack that begins from the platform reached after the steep steps on the Northeast approach, directly left of Teacher's Lounge. The route starts after the two pitches moving up and left through ledges and bushes and back right to Teacher's Lounge ledge as described in Patent Pending and the Northeast Buttress approach. The route is easily located from the Teachers Lounge above and to the left (around the corner) of the rap anchors for New Wave and Broken Tree. The line starts out a hand crack and continues that way for about 110' where it reaches a little hollow offwidth section and is 5.9 all the way. The offwidth section is much easier climbing and a good place to rest. It continues on for about 20-30' to a bulge. If you look left from there you will realize the rap anchors are hidden around the corner on the column on your left (look for a bolted hanger facing you that tells you where the anchors are around the corner and protects the move to the anchors, you can not see the anchors unless you lean way back so thank goodness someone put the bolt there because I was getting ready to try to pull the bulge above me). The line is, as a friend of mine put it, sicko good and was the best line we found on the tower at that grade by far!!!

Protection

Bring as many pieces around a #2 Friend (1.5-2.5) as you have. You can occasionally go a little bigger or a little smaller but not often. Medium hexes were way cool to have in that range also.
I would say this is VERY sandbag @ 5.9. While one could argue none of the moves are 5.9, you essentially repeat the same sequence of foot/hand jamming in a hand crack for 50+ feet. Moving generally involves loading hard on whichever foot is currently jammed in the crack and could be considered painful. The sequence as a whole feels well into 5.10, and I think that in many other crags this would be graded somewhere in the low 5.10 range.

This being said, amazing line for sure - the quality of the rock and consistancy of the crack is amazing, the nature of that cracks eases up and starts to change only very high up above. Jul 21, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Can be done in 3 pitches instead of 5. Nice to keep ahead of a log-jam at belays or to get up there before the heat/cold/storm/dark sets in:
P1 - combine P1/P2 with a 60M rope and 30' of 5.2 simulclimbing or use a 70M rope.
P2 - Do P3 but continue to just below the roof on P4, or with a 70M continue past that roof and belay
P3 - Head for the top of the tower. May 31, 2014
P.D.Williams
Lakewood
  5.9+
P.D.Williams   Lakewood
  5.9+
For crack climbing, it doesn't get any better than P2 on Assembly Line. We combined (simulclimbed) the bottom 2 pitches and did the last pitch in one push and topped out. 3 pitch climb. (Be careful to not overshoot the traverse to the belay station near the top of the main crack.) The $ pitch is sweet, but very strenuous and sustained. Oct 20, 2009
phatline
Burlingame, CA
 
phatline   Burlingame, CA
 
Fingers at the start were the crux for me, but had good rests. The hands section was cruiser but certainly sustained.

We took the next pitch all the way to the top with 60m, and I thought this was way better climbing than Meadows finish (steeper, more exposed, and more solid). Jun 6, 2009
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.9
A lovely jamming experience on the first pitch, then easier but still fun upper pitches. Watch out for the attack of the killer swarming insects (termites?) on the summit. Oct 6, 2007
Judd is a friend of mine and will probably be happy to hear of the good reports, I am trying to get him climbing again. His 13yr old son and 11yr old daughter are naturals. Aug 29, 2007
This climb was intense. I climbed it 2 weekends ago, and let me tell you my calfs where pretty burnt after. Oct 16, 2006
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Hard to beat, esp. when combined with New Wave. Bang out the final pitch with a rope-stretcher on your 60m and you're on the top. Aug 25, 2006
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.9
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.9
One word says it all... CLASSIC... Apr 8, 2006
Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
Brad Schildt   Boulder, CO
The route does continue to the summit, through some fun, small roofs. Easier climbing and a great way to summit. Oct 1, 2003