Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dennis Horning, Judd Jennerjahn '75
Page Views: 22,123 total · 112/month
Shared By: Barrett Cooper on Sep 6, 2002 with updates from Lauren Wilson
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


194 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

An amazingly continuous hand crack that begins from the platform reached after the steep steps on the Northeast approach, directly left of Teacher's Lounge. The route starts after the two pitches moving up and left through ledges and bushes and back right to Teacher's Lounge ledge as described in Patent Pending and the Northeast Buttress approach. The route is easily located from the Teachers Lounge above and to the left (around the corner) of the rap anchors for New Wave and Broken Tree. The line starts out a hand crack and continues that way for about 110' where it reaches a little hollow offwidth section and is 5.9 all the way. The offwidth section is much easier climbing and a good place to rest. It continues on for about 20-30' to a bulge. If you look left from there you will realize the rap anchors are hidden around the corner on the column on your left (look for a bolted hanger facing you that tells you where the anchors are around the corner and protects the move to the anchors, you can not see the anchors unless you lean way back so thank goodness someone put the bolt there because I was getting ready to try to pull the bulge above me). The line is, as a friend of mine put it, sicko good and was the best line we found on the tower at that grade by far!!!

Protection

Bring as many pieces around a #2 Friend (1.5-2.5) as you have. You can occasionally go a little bigger or a little smaller but not often. Medium hexes were way cool to have in that range also.
Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
Brad Schildt   Boulder, CO
The route does continue to the summit, through some fun, small roofs. Easier climbing and a great way to summit. Oct 1, 2003
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.9
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.9
One word says it all... CLASSIC... Apr 8, 2006
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Hard to beat, esp. when combined with New Wave. Bang out the final pitch with a rope-stretcher on your 60m and you're on the top. Aug 25, 2006
This climb was intense. I climbed it 2 weekends ago, and let me tell you my calfs where pretty burnt after. Oct 16, 2006
Judd is a friend of mine and will probably be happy to hear of the good reports, I am trying to get him climbing again. His 13yr old son and 11yr old daughter are naturals. Aug 29, 2007
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.9
A lovely jamming experience on the first pitch, then easier but still fun upper pitches. Watch out for the attack of the killer swarming insects (termites?) on the summit. Oct 6, 2007
phatline
Burlingame, CA
 
phatline   Burlingame, CA
 
Fingers at the start were the crux for me, but had good rests. The hands section was cruiser but certainly sustained.

We took the next pitch all the way to the top with 60m, and I thought this was way better climbing than Meadows finish (steeper, more exposed, and more solid). Jun 6, 2009
Paul Williams
Bozeman
  5.9+
Paul Williams   Bozeman
  5.9+
For crack climbing, it doesn't get any better than P2 on Assembly Line. We combined (simulclimbed) the bottom 2 pitches and did the last pitch in one push and topped out. 3 pitch climb. (Be careful to not overshoot the traverse to the belay station near the top of the main crack.) The $ pitch is sweet, but very strenuous and sustained. Oct 20, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Can be done in 3 pitches instead of 5. Nice to keep ahead of a log-jam at belays or to get up there before the heat/cold/storm/dark sets in:
P1 - combine P1/P2 with a 60M rope and 30' of 5.2 simulclimbing or use a 70M rope.
P2 - Do P3 but continue to just below the roof on P4, or with a 70M continue past that roof and belay
P3 - Head for the top of the tower. May 31, 2014
I would say this is VERY sandbag @ 5.9. While one could argue none of the moves are 5.9, you essentially repeat the same sequence of foot/hand jamming in a hand crack for 50+ feet. Moving generally involves loading hard on whichever foot is currently jammed in the crack and could be considered painful. The sequence as a whole feels well into 5.10, and I think that in many other crags this would be graded somewhere in the low 5.10 range.

This being said, amazing line for sure - the quality of the rock and consistancy of the crack is amazing, the nature of that cracks eases up and starts to change only very high up above. Jul 21, 2017
Rack recommendation: #3, #2(2), #1(2), #.75(3), #.5(2), #.4, #.3, nuts. That saw me through from the giant belay ledge (at the top of New Wave) up to the semi-hanging belay bolts (which as is noted in the description can be found by following a couple old, small bolt hangers out left around the column if you pay attention as you're going up the crack). For the next pitch (to the summit), we did the chimney going up left of the anchors - a bit off-width to start, but eases up to juggy chimney climbing. Not as much opportunity for gear placements and a bit of choss, but pretty easy climbing. Oct 8, 2018