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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maid in the Shade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectator Sport T A2-
Stepping Out of Flatland T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,595 total · 9/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Sep 28, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A pretty fun stemming pitch with a slightly spicey crux. It is a bit licheny, so my guess is that it doesn't get climbed that much, though it is an excellent pitch.

Approach by climbing the first pitch of Everlasting (5.8+). From the Everlasting belay, traverse right past the first bolt of Everlasting's 2nd pitch and climb slighlty loose and vegetated cracks and flakes up into the dihedral formed by the right side of the Everlasting column. This is where the fun begins.

Stem up the corner that starts fairly moderately but becomes increasingly difficult as you ascend. The crack in the dihedral eventually peters out, but good RPs can be placed in the crack on the right. The section at the stemming crux does not eat gear and the final moves out of the crux are a bit above your last nut. Continue more easily to a final tricky move left onto the Everlasting column.

Double rope rap to the Everlasting belay and then a double rope rap to the ground

Protection

Lots of nuts, including RPs. Some small cams up to #1.5 Friend. A #2 Camalot works well in a pod before you start stringing together RPs.

Photos

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Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
Getting up to the corner is a little loose with some plant life, but the crux corner itself is clean. Definitely a route worth getting on, especially if you're looking for harder lines in the shade after the west face starts burning.

Two 70 meter ropes will get you to the ground in one rap. Jul 7, 2012
D-Storm  
Good adventure route! Some local kind of sandbagged me into getting on it at the end of a blustery day (I've sent 5.13 — how hard can 10d be?). At one point I was beginning to wonder if I was off route … It's all there, though. The hardest part is staying relaxed enough to keep your feet from shaking off of the delicate stances. Certainly not uber classic, but a good test piece for the mind. Nov 3, 2007
It is wise to take about five or six over the shoulder length slings for this route as the protection is along two separate crack lines. The gear placements can be tedious at times and won't always inspire confidence. Not the best choice for a leader whose limit is 5.10d. None the less a must do for those who frequent Devils Tower despite the vegetated nature. Sep 19, 2004