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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maid in the Shade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectator Sport T A2-
Stepping Out of Flatland T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Walt Bailey and some of his students, 1956
Page Views: 2,094 total, 11/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Sep 1, 2002 with updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

About 10 feet to the left of Burning Daylight is this great pitch. There are numerous fixed pins on this pitch of questionable quality. There aren't other pro options in some of these sections, so this climb may warrant an 'S' rating.

Climb the crack through an awkward start to a good rest. Though the difficulty of the climb is mainly in keeping it together for a long pitch with many hard sections, the next 30 feet are probably the crux... a mix of laybacking and stemming past lots of fixed pins. When the crack peters out near the top, moderate but runout face climbing leads up and right to the exit moves on Burning Daylight.

Double rope rappel from the anchors of Burning Daylight. This pitch could also be toproped by first climbing Belle Fourche Buttress or Burning Daylight.

Protection

SR with lots of stoppers. There are many old fixed pins on this route of dubious quality. Hand sized cams for the shared exit with Burning Daylight.

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Have fond memories of following this fantastic pitch in the early 90's. Think the guy leading was a local guide and remember he only placed nuts or clipped the pins with single biners. Dec 1, 2015
Ty Johnson
Montrose, CO
 
Ty Johnson   Montrose, CO
 
There were 3 pins before the traverse to burning daylight as of 8/19/15. It can be safely led without clipping any of the them, as it takes gear nicely. If in doubt, get on it! Classic and unique for the tower. Aug 19, 2015
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
 
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
 
Spectacular pitch! One of my favorites at the Tower. Pretty stout for the grade although there are several good stances to de-pump. Lots of hard sections that require a nice variety of techniques. A must do on the list of classic 10's at the tower. May 27, 2008
while rappelling this route I easily hand removed the only pin that I inspected, go to sanders house if you want to see the relic. on a side note, the ffa the party removed all of the original fixed pins on aid, and then placed the same (old) pins on rappel to protect the crux.
toms brother patrick Mar 28, 2007