Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Walt Bailey and some of his students, 1956
Page Views: 2,416 total · 12/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Sep 1, 2002 with improvements by brian n
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

About 10 feet to the left of Burning Daylight is this great pitch. There are numerous fixed pins on this pitch of questionable quality. There aren't other pro options in some of these sections, so this climb may warrant an 'S' rating.

Climb the crack through an awkward start to a good rest. Though the difficulty of the climb is mainly in keeping it together for a long pitch with many hard sections, the next 30 feet are probably the crux... a mix of laybacking and stemming past lots of fixed pins. When the crack peters out near the top, moderate but runout face climbing leads up and right to the exit moves on Burning Daylight.

Double rope rappel from the anchors of Burning Daylight. This pitch could also be toproped by first climbing Belle Fourche Buttress or Burning Daylight.

Protection

SR with lots of stoppers. There are many old fixed pins on this route of dubious quality. Hand sized cams for the shared exit with Burning Daylight.

Photos