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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maid in the Shade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectator Sport T A2-
Stepping Out of Flatland T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Kamps '59
Page Views: 1,794 total, 14/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on Mar 5, 2007
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

If big crack are your style, then enjoy this beauty. The crux is not technically difficult... just awkward... and comes mid pitch one.

P1: Begin with the initial moves of Belle Fourche Buttress. Continue up the wide crack to the top of the buttress. This is a 150 ft. pitch... SAVE THE GAS! Most parties rappel from the anchors here.

P2: Continue straight up to the large roofs. Traverse left a couple cracks and climb through the roof about 50 ft. to a large belay ledge.

P3 & 4: Same as Casper College.

Location

Between Burning Daylight and Belle Fourche Buttress.

Protection

Standard Tower rack with extra 3 & 4 inch pieces. Maybe even a #5 Camalot?

Photos

Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
A #5 and #6 are certainly useful. If you didn't bring anything bigger than a number 4 the upper half would be very runout. Jul 3, 2016