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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maid in the Shade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectator Sport T A2-
Stepping Out of Flatland T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Conley and Pearson, 1975
Page Views: 117 total, 2/month
Shared By: Sean Nelb on Aug 23, 2011
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Witchie is a seldom-led climb on the east side. It has excellent moves, but contains some bushes and loose rock. However, it is definitely worth doing if you are looking for something a litte less conventional than the more classic lines to the right.

Follow a left-leaning corner to a roof. Climb around the roof and into a finger and hand crack that leads to another corner and an anchor. This pitch has a little vegetation, but is otherwise clean with solid rock. 5.9

Keep following the long corner using mostly stems and finger jams until an anchor is reached in a chimney. This pitch is very sustained 5.10b. Some loose flakes can be found on the upper section, but they can mostly be avoided. 160 ft.

Location

Start on the far left side of the ledge at the base of Burning Daylight and Belle Fourche.

Protection

nuts and cams to #2 camalot. Doubles handy, especially in the finger sizes.

Photos

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Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
 
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
 
Really fun quality climbing and mostly clean... Unfortunately some bad rock quality in places makes this climb a little exciting at times. I recommend doubles from green c3 to #3 camalot, and a healthy selection of nuts. 1st and 2nd pitch anchors replaced by myself and Phil Knecht 9/29/17. Sep 30, 2017