Connect with Facebook
East and Northeast Buttress Approach Rock Climbing
Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach
|
Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Fruity Pebbles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Maid in the Shaid T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Missed Opportunity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
NORTH FACE RAPPEL ROUTE TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
|
|
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Path Through Enlightenment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2-3 |
|
|
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- |
|
|
Sassenach's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Spectator Sport T A2- |
|
|
Stepping Out of Flatland T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
|
|
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Elevation: | 4,581 ft |
| GPS: |
44.5911, -104.71442 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 91,316 total · 362/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Milhaupt on Jul 11, 2002 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Description
This area encompasses a large portion of Devil's Tower that is accessable via the East and Northeast buttress approaches. Everything from offwidth to finger cracks can be found here. Most routes are of high quality with sustained straight-in climbing. On the East side of the tower looms a large roof system that cuts across the sheer East face of the tower. To the right of these roofs is the Belle Fouche buttress which forms a prominent protrusion that ledges out halfway up the tower. This buttress marks, more or less, the left end of the routes accessable from this appoach. The right end is at the terminus of the ramp below the north face. Quality climbs of note include Belle Fouche buttress, McCarthy's North Face, and New Wave. From the Teacher's Lounge ledge there are several great climbs including Patent Pending and Assembly Line.
Getting There
From the lot follow the paved trail around the North side of the tower. The trail dips low into the woods and then climbs back into view of the tower. Hike past a bench and before a large boulder start looking for a faint trail that is sometimes cairned. The trail winds up to the notch that separates the base of the east face from the northeast. At the notch the better defined trail goes up steps to the right to the routes below teacher's ledge lounge and continues on broken ledges to all the north face routes. The less defined trail is so because there are less quality routes and abundant poison ivy. To reach routes on and near Belle Fouche buttress ford the ivy and scramble up and across slabs to the base.
Classic Climbing Routes at East and Northeast Buttress Approach
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
Weather Averages
|
High
|
Low
|
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
Prime Climbing Season
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
All Photos Within East and Northeast Buttress Approach
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About East and Northeast Buttress Approach
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Guidebooks (2)
5 Comments