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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maid in the Shade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectator Sport T A2-
Stepping Out of Flatland T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 4,581 ft
GPS: 44.591, -104.714 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 40,008 total, 213/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Jul 11, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

Description

This area encompasses a large portion of Devil's Tower that is accessable via the East and Northeast buttress approaches. Everything from offwidth to finger cracks can be found here. Most routes are of high quality with sustained straight-in climbing. On the East side of the tower looms a large roof system that cuts across the sheer East face of the tower. To the right of these roofs is the Belle Fouche buttress which forms a prominent protrusion that ledges out halfway up the tower. This buttress marks, more or less, the left end of the routes accessable from this appoach. The right end is at the terminus of the ramp below the north face. Quality climbs of note include Belle Fouche buttress, McCarthy's North Face, and New Wave. From the Teacher's Lounge ledge there are several great climbs including Patent Pending and Assembly Line.
June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Getting There

From the lot follow the paved trail around the North side of the tower. The trail dips low into the woods and then climbs back into view of the tower. Hike past a bench and before a large boulder start looking for a faint trail that is sometimes cairned. The trail winds up to the notch that separates the base of the east face from the northeast. At the notch the better defined trail goes up steps to the right to the routes below teacher's ledge lounge and continues on broken ledges to all the north face routes. The less defined trail is so because there are less quality routes and abundant poison ivy. To reach routes on and near Belle Fouche buttress ford the ivy and scramble up and across slabs to the base.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: East and Northeast Buttress Approach Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patent Pending
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Assembly Line
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gooseberry Jam
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Wave
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burning Daylight
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dump Watt
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Back to Montana
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Casper College
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Hourglass
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stepping Out of Flatland
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Everlasting
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maid in the Shade
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Surfer Girl
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Patent Pending 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Assembly Line 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Gooseberry Jam 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
New Wave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Broken Tree 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Belle Fourche Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Burning Daylight 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Dump Watt 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Back to Montana 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Casper College 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
The Hourglass 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Stepping Out of Flatland 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Everlasting 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Maid in the Shade 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Surfer Girl 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in East and Northeast Buttress Approach »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
There is a rap outlined in the guidebook for the NorthEast side. I rapped this after topping out on Assembly Line. It was fairly straightforward and easy. The first rap anchor was immediately to climbers left when topping out, with a cairn marking the short downclimb. The first two rappels were 2 or 3 old bolts equalized with cord. Use your own judgement in replacing this cord. Also, the book says the 2nd rap is 110'. This is incorrect, a 70m rope will not reach the next rap anchor. Bring 2 ropes. From a large pine tree at the bottom it's an easy walk back to the base.

Shade in the pm. Jul 30, 2017
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
It is possible to descend from the top of the tower via Assembly Line. Down climb the final 5.0 chimney of that route and look east for rap anchors. Jul 26, 2007
Andy Busse
Rapid City, SD
Andy Busse   Rapid City, SD  
Take it easy Curt, Have a good off-season.We look forward to hearing from you time to time....Andy Busse Oct 1, 2004
Dear Friends,I am leaving today, just for the winter. For that I am a little sad. I hope everyone keeps crankin' & and having fun.Remember climbing is not to feed the EGO but a chance to be a good partner and enjoy Life around the corner from the manstream lifestyles. I have climbed in a few areas besides the ones in SD WY but here is home and in my opion really really great!! In our time right now there is so much BS already it seems odd to me that sometimes we fight in a very childish way. Lets all stand together and help one another not push one another down and judge each other for the small things. I know I am not a Saint, and that keeps me in check. Everyone make mistakes, hopefully we can all learn from them? Well anyway as we sometimes say, "I'M OUT"!I love this place and all the people in it, I may not show it sometimes but I think and pray for our community and resorces in it, all the time. I consider myself one of the Lucky Ones to have grown up here and in the process make many Lifelong Friends.To all of you out there short, tall, strong or weak, I LOVE YOU.Love Curt Sep 30, 2004
The way we were told to find the trail for the approach was wonderful. From the parking lot take the right(counterclockwise) paved path that leads you under Durrance and follow it to the USPS information sign for the fallen tower. From there walk 70 paces, the trail leads up to the left. It works every time and if your paces are smaller than mine the trail is ~70 paces at a point where the paved path starts going back up after dropping down a hill. Sep 10, 2002

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