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East and Northeast Buttress Approach Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Fruity Pebbles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hubba Bubba T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Maid in the Shaid T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	NORTH FACE RAPPEL ROUTE TR 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Path Through Enlightenment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2-3
	Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
	Sassenach's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Spectator Sport T A2-
	Stepping Out of Flatland T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:

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Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	4,581 ft	1,396 m
GPS:	44.5911, -104.71442 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Brian Milhaupt on Jul 11, 2002
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE

The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.

Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.

Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.

Description

As of 5/15/23 This side of the tower is closed for raptor nesting.

https://www.nps.gov/deto/learn/news/temporary-closure-to-protect-nesting-falcons-and-climbers.htm

This area encompasses a large portion of Devil's Tower that is accessable via the East and Northeast buttress approaches. Everything from offwidth to finger cracks can be found here. Most routes are of high quality with sustained straight-in climbing. On the East side of the tower looms a large roof system that cuts across the sheer East face of the tower. To the right of these roofs is the Belle Fouche buttress which forms a prominent protrusion that ledges out halfway up the tower. This buttress marks, more or less, the left end of the routes accessable from this appoach. The right end is at the terminus of the ramp below the north face. Quality climbs of note include Belle Fouche buttress, McCarthy's North Face, and New Wave. From the Teacher's Lounge ledge there are several great climbs including Patent Pending and Assembly Line.

Getting There

From the lot follow the paved trail around the North side of the tower. The trail dips low into the woods and then climbs back into view of the tower. Hike past a bench and before a large boulder start looking for a faint trail that is sometimes cairned. The trail winds up to the notch that separates the base of the east face from the northeast. At the notch the better defined trail goes up steps to the right to the routes below teacher's ledge lounge and continues on broken ledges to all the north face routes. The less defined trail is so because there are less quality routes and abundant poison ivy. To reach routes on and near Belle Fouche buttress ford the ivy and scramble up and across slabs to the base.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 47 ● Patent Pending Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 281 ● Assembly Line Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 15 ● Gooseberry Jam Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 237 ● New Wave Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 153 ● Broken Tree Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 101 ● Belle Fourche Buttress Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 74 ● Burning Daylight Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 22 ● Dump Watt Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 24 ● Back to Montana Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 30 ● Casper College Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 7 ● The Hourglass Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 39 ● Everlasting Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 13 ● Maid in the Shaid Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 5 ● Team Ropin Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 5 ● Surfer Girl Trad