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Elevation: 4,581 ft 1,396 m
GPS: 44.5911, -104.71442
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 92,292 total · 345/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Jul 11, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
Warning Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

As of 5/15/23 This side of the tower is closed for raptor nesting.

https://www.nps.gov/deto/learn/news/temporary-closure-to-protect-nesting-falcons-and-climbers.htm

This area encompasses a large portion of Devil's Tower that is accessable via the East and Northeast buttress approaches. Everything from offwidth to finger cracks can be found here. Most routes are of high quality with sustained straight-in climbing. On the East side of the tower looms a large roof system that cuts across the sheer East face of the tower. To the right of these roofs is the Belle Fouche buttress which forms a prominent protrusion that ledges out halfway up the tower. This buttress marks, more or less, the left end of the routes accessable from this appoach. The right end is at the terminus of the ramp below the north face. Quality climbs of note include Belle Fouche buttress, McCarthy's North Face, and New Wave. From the Teacher's Lounge ledge there are several great climbs including Patent Pending and Assembly Line.

Getting There Suggest change

From the lot follow the paved trail around the North side of the tower. The trail dips low into the woods and then climbs back into view of the tower. Hike past a bench and before a large boulder start looking for a faint trail that is sometimes cairned. The trail winds up to the notch that separates the base of the east face from the northeast. At the notch the better defined trail goes up steps to the right to the routes below teacher's ledge lounge and continues on broken ledges to all the north face routes. The less defined trail is so because there are less quality routes and abundant poison ivy. To reach routes on and near Belle Fouche buttress ford the ivy and scramble up and across slabs to the base.

28 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: East and Northeast Buttress Approach Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 45
Patent Pending
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 271
Assembly Line
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Gooseberry Jam
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 229
New Wave
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 147
Broken Tree
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 97
Belle Fourche Buttress
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 71
Burning Daylight
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Dump Watt
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 24
Back to Montana
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 28
Casper College
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
The Hourglass
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 39
Everlasting
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
Maid in the Shaid
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Team Ropin
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Surfer Girl
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Patent Pending
 45
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Assembly Line
 271
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Gooseberry Jam
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
New Wave
 229
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Broken Tree
 147
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Belle Fourche Buttress
 97
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Burning Daylight
 71
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Dump Watt
 21
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Back to Montana
 24
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Casper College
 28
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
The Hourglass
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Everlasting
 39
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Maid in the Shaid
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Team Ropin
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Surfer Girl
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in East and Northeast Buttress Approach »

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