Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,926 total · 32/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Sep 5, 2003
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

One of three must-do routes in the Belle Fourche Buttress area... an excellent hang-out on hot afternoons. This climb follows the left facing dihedral of the buttress. I can't tell the difference between a 5.9 or 5.11a crux a lot of times at the Tower, but this one felt kind of burly.

More varied than your typical Tower pitch, this pitch covers a lot of different techniques in pulling a series of bulges. The climb really gets going at about the 40' foot mark, with tips around a slight leftward jog in the dihedral followed by thin fingers over a bulge. A similar section immediately follows on thin hands over another bulge. The crack then turns to lower angled wide hands leading up to an easier-than-it-looks exit.

Double rope rap from the anchors at the top of the pitch.

Protection

Full rack. Cams up to #3.5 friend.

Photos

Jeff G.
Fort Collins
 
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
 
Excellent route for breaking into harder 5.10 on the tower. Hard sections are followed by good rests and the top half of the pitch is easier. Great climbing the whole way! Sep 13, 2003
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.10b
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.10b
This is a route that isn't done NEARLY enough. Tremendous pro and a wonderful "flavor" of moves... Apr 8, 2006
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
Frank, why'd you give a PG13? Poor pro? Apr 8, 2009
My favorite route on the tower, it's the only route with not one but two overhangs, great pro and a full 150 feet of pumpy fun. Nov 11, 2009
Casey Engstrom
Burnaby, BC
 
Casey Engstrom   Burnaby, BC
 
Wide variety of moves. I was surprised that the crux for me was not the largest roof, but the smaller "roof" below it. The approach requires some scrambly moves. May 11, 2016