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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maid in the Shade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectator Sport T A2-
Stepping Out of Flatland T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,466 total, 31/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Sep 5, 2003
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

One of three must-do routes in the Belle Fourche Buttress area... an excellent hang-out on hot afternoons. This climb follows the left facing dihedral of the buttress. I can't tell the difference between a 5.9 or 5.11a crux a lot of times at the Tower, but this one felt kind of burly.

More varied than your typical Tower pitch, this pitch covers a lot of different techniques in pulling a series of bulges. The climb really gets going at about the 40' foot mark, with tips around a slight leftward jog in the dihedral followed by thin fingers over a bulge. A similar section immediately follows on thin hands over another bulge. The crack then turns to lower angled wide hands leading up to an easier-than-it-looks exit.

Double rope rap from the anchors at the top of the pitch.

Protection

Full rack. Cams up to #3.5 friend.

Photos

Casey Engstrom
Burnaby, BC
 
Casey Engstrom   Burnaby, BC
 
Wide variety of moves. I was surprised that the crux for me was not the largest roof, but the smaller "roof" below it. The approach requires some scrambly moves. May 11, 2016
My favorite route on the tower, it's the only route with not one but two overhangs, great pro and a full 150 feet of pumpy fun. Nov 11, 2009
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
Frank, why'd you give a PG13? Poor pro? Apr 8, 2009
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.10b
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.10b
This is a route that isn't done NEARLY enough. Tremendous pro and a wonderful "flavor" of moves... Apr 8, 2006
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
 
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
 
Excellent route for breaking into harder 5.10 on the tower. Hard sections are followed by good rests and the top half of the pitch is easier. Great climbing the whole way! Sep 13, 2003