Avg: 2.2 from 13 votes
|Type:||Sport, 170 ft (52 m)|
|FA:||Dingus & TLPW|
|Page Views:||1,875 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||david goldstein on Jul 23, 2008|
|Admins:||Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
The pitch follows about 15 bolts up an off-vertical face and an arete. The crux is midway, after the only bolt on the right side of the arete; this section is a little spicey -- the bolt is at your feet after you pull the crux but there is still a body length of insecure moves to get to the next bolt. If you are under about 5'10", you might find the bolt after this one placed just out of reach from the obvious clipping stance. After the crux, the climbing eases off somewhat until you reach a ledge where you might expect to find anchors, only to find four more bolts (happily, more closely spaced) on an imposingly blank slab; fear not, this secondary crux is not as featureless as it first appears.
Descent: 50+ meter rap from two bolts.
A large nut and a finger size cam (~ .4 Camalot) are needed to establish a belay at the start.