Mountain Project Logo

Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maid in the Shade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectator Sport T A2-
Stepping Out of Flatland T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 170 ft
FA: Dingus & TLPW
Page Views: 1,069 total, 9/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 23, 2008
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A pretty good pitch, but given the abundance of truly classic lines nearby and some suspect rock, I'll call it merely good.

The pitch follows about 15 bolts up an off-vertical face and an arete. The crux is midway, after the only bolt on the right side of the arete; this section is a little spicey -- the bolt is at your feet after you pull the crux but there is still a body length of insecure moves to get to the next bolt. If you are under about 5'10", you might find the bolt after this one placed just out of reach from the obvious clipping stance. After the crux, the climbing eases off somewhat until you reach a ledge where you might expect to find anchors, only to find four more bolts (happily, more closely spaced) on an imposingly blank slab; fear not, this secondary crux is not as featureless as it first appears.

Descent: 50+ meter rap from two bolts.

Location

This shady pitch is a few cracks right of Belle Fourche Buttress. A picture would be worth at least 1000 of my words here -- consult a guidebook for the exact location of the pitch. The best way to get to the route is to go to Teacher's ledge and then traverse easily almost straight left to the start keeping an eye out for poison ivy. Identify the route by its bolts, rack up and then scramble up about 15' to a bush where you belay from.

Protection

At least 15 QDs and long runners. I brought a light rack but only placed one piece, an unnecessary yellow Alien; there are virtually no other placement opportunities any where else where you might want additional gear.

A large nut and a finger size cam (~ .4 Camalot) are needed to establish a belay at the start.

Photos

- No Photos -
TomKingsbury  
 
with all of the classics that dingus has established, this route just doesn't fit the standard. a shame of a route really. with the crux having the largest run-out, maybe only 15 feet, and then stances above where you can clip two bolts with out moving...wtf.

was thinking it was only done to piss off the park service? maybe

loose rock, that seems to be getting looser....

-patrick kingsbury Oct 11, 2008