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Routes in West Face

411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodguard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
Deli Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mark Hesse, Dan McClure '72
Page Views: 15,909 total, 86/month
Shared By: Mark M. on Aug 15, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

An excellent route which will test all of your crack climing techniques. This route starts in a left facing dihederal on the south end of the west face just right of a tree and 2 cracks to the left of the 5.10 version of Mcarthy West Face.

The first pitch (10a) is fun and continuous with thin fingers & liebacking up the corner to a belay on top of the column on the left. Pitch 2 heads up a short corner (10a)to another ledge. These pitches could probably be combined with a 60m rope. The third pitch is the meat of the climb. Continue up the obvious crack in the left-facing corner. Although it is "easier" at 5.9 it is wide, continous, and gets more steep as you go for a long 160+ feet. From here you can do some poor climbing up chimneys to reach the summit or do two long raps on double ropes form bolts.

Mark Morehouse

Protection

Stoppers and small cams for the first and 2nd pitch. The 3rd pitch is wide and would eat up 3.5 camalots, although 3's work well in spots and you could use a #2 and the bottom of the pitch.
Link the first two pitches. Belay below the 160 foot long fist crack (on bomber bolts) and do the fist crack. It is one of the best pitches here at the tower. Oct 5, 2016
jackkelly00
new hampshire
jackkelly00   new hampshire
I thought this pitch was a bit technical for 10a. Great climb though Nov 21, 2012
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
P1 & P2 Felt more like 10b/c to me (maybe because I have sausage fingers). It's all there but the route is sustained and technical. P2 is short but stout. Jul 19, 2012
Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
vimeo.com/30160891
Dudes from Ft. Collins on 3rd pitch of Tulgey Wood Oct 9, 2011
Kurt Prond
Bozeman, MT
 
Kurt Prond   Bozeman, MT
 
Great Route! I stemmed most of the first pitch, especially the seam. Linked the second, which makes sense though the rope gets pretty dang heavy to pull up and clip. 3rd pitch, while maybe not technically harder, was definitely more sustained and will test your stamina. I bumped a BD #4 for about 40 feet. Nice little roof move at the end also.
Quality route. Jul 6, 2011
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
The third pitch will take some BD #4's. Sep 23, 2009
The first pitch is quality climbing on good rock. We only did the first pitch. Our book said to take some RPs to protect the crux. You do not need any RPs to protect the crux or any other part of the pitch 1. My girlfriend placed a #5 Stopper at the crux and that was the smallest piece she used. Jun 1, 2009
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
a comment & few tricks that may help some taller, and big handed folks.
1. the thin seam crux of P1, is dicey for sausage fingered people. but it took C3 x #00.
2. P2 can be made easier by stemming to the left wall. Im 6', and it maxed by span, but helped tremendously.
3. P3 is the enduro pitch. it is not OW. no place for arm bars, or heel-toe here. but it is a fist crack (horizontal fist). thick tape, or hand-jammies will help alot. camming the foot, an occasional knee, and lemaz will help.
4. a triple rack from #2-#4, will help. perhaps even 4, #3.5s Sep 25, 2008
Nate Furman
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Nate Furman   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
A partner and I did this several years ago. The seasonal rangers said that the third pitch had a reputation for being the hardest 5.9 pitch in the country.

Although I think that may be overstating the case, the 3rd pitch is certainly a good workout. My partner was so exhausted mid-pitch that he decided to lower off rather than struggle/thrutch for another 45 minutes. His OW technique was probably a little underdeveloped, but, yeah, the pitch really gives you the what for.

Protects fine, though. Super fun. Mar 29, 2008
flynn  
I thought the third pitch was the crux of the climb: lots and lots of moves, few rests and deep, elusive, difficult jams for small hands. Keep your psych up even though it's "only" 5.9. Feb 12, 2007
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10a
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10a
The third pitch is not to be missed, just bring extra big cams. We didn't have enough so I had to run it out about 15 feet between some pieces and fiddle with large hexes. May 10, 2006
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.10a
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.10a
Make SURE of your placements on P2. The moves are deceiving... Apr 8, 2006
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
To further help locate this route, the left facing dihedral mentioned in the description is a LF accute corner through one stretch about 50' up. The crack starts out hands, goes to fingers, and eventually peters out to an RP seam (crux).

We only did the 1st 2 pitches. The 3rd pitch looks like an amazing fist/OW crack. Beautiful climb with great pro. Sustained and varied. Awesome! Scott Conner Sep 15, 2003