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Durrance Approach Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Durrance Approach

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black-Jones Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Blue Stem Skyway T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Centennial A2
	Devil's Delight Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Direct Southwest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Double-Edged Blade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
	Durrance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Fritz's Fantasy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
	Liken Lichen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Lovely Liana T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Manifest Destiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	P.O.T.C. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Pseudo- Wiessner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rangers Are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Space Ranger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tunnel Vision T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Wiessner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Elevation:	4,515 ft	1,376 m
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE

The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.

Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.

Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.

Description

This approach leads to Durrance and surrounding cracks. Durrance is the most popular route on the tower, and it is usually crowded during summer months. This area also contains the Wiessner offwidth, Best Crack in Minnesota, Rangers are People Too, Pigeon English, etc. This area is primarily on the south side of the tower, so expect hot sun through most of the day.

Getting There

Take the trail east from the parking lot and then take a right at the junction a short distance away. Soon after, start heading toward the tower across the talus, taking the path of least resistence. This is also the start for the west face approaches. As you approach the tower, scramble up onto the southeast shoulder, and then depending on the route desired, follow this trail east around the tower. Durrance is located around the tower a ways, and starts near the location of the ramp for the south and east faces.

Durrance can also be reached by following the approach for the south/east faces until the start of the ramp. At this point, some scrambling/lower 5th class rock is required to get up to the base of the route and should probably be roped up.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Durrance Approach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 105 ● Bowling Alley- aka Durrance appr… Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 13 ● Sundance Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 865 ● Durrance Trad 6 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 22 ● Wiessner Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 53 ● Pseudo- Wiessner Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 29 ● Rangers Are People Too Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 14 ● Manifest Destiny Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 22 ● Fritz's Fantasy Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 10 ● P.O.T.C. Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 10 ● Lovely Liana Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 49 ● Direct Southwest Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 10 ● Black-Jones Direct Trad