Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Henry Barber '77
Page Views: 14,123 total · 76/month
Shared By: Andy Johnson on Oct 4, 2003
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


This climb is unbelieveable. You will want to lick your fingers when you are done just to make sure you got it all. Begin about 20 feet left of Tugley Wood. Look for the obvious small, bright yellow roof about forty feet up. Begin with a short, enjoyable approach pitch that brings one to a stance with chains below the roof. Pitch 2 is the crux. Fire through the roof (single crux move) then continue for a full-value pitch up the incredibly sustained fingers and thin-hands crack. This pitch is probably about 165 feet long with no truly great rests. The are chains at the top of the pitch. Keep your eyes open for feet out on the left face, they will save you. Pitch 3 looks fun and goes at .10a, but most parties rap at the top of the second pitch. Another great .11a testpiece very similar to Carol's crack, but slightly easier


Lots of medium and large stoppers. Many cams in the .5 inch to 1.5 inch range. Many hands and big hands if you plan to do the third pitch.


Andy Johnson
Andy Johnson  
I would definately agree with the above comment. However, unlike many Devils Tower routes, this one does protect very well with cams. Still you could easily sew this one up with bombproof stoppers. Oct 7, 2003
Fort Collins, CO
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
Truly a world-class route. Put some nuts on single 'biners (~ #6 thru #11 stopper sizes) and just "drop 'em in and clip 'em". Good spots for 4 or 5 each of #0.75 and #1 Camalot sizes, too.

As mentioned above, passing the yellow roof is the technical crux of the pitch. Nothing after that approaches .11a for any single move, it's just super enduro. Don't miss the killer rest on the arete to the right at ~75 feet out.

Pitch 3 looks really good- we rapped off at end of p.2 Sep 7, 2006
Jeff G.
Jeff G.   Lyons
Cracks just don't get much better than this one! If you have one route to aspire to at this amazing Devils Tower, it should be MR. CLEAN! Sep 7, 2006
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
I found this great shot of Mr. Clean on ST. Photo Jan 30, 2008

nice shot, the time i posted it, got teased, because i obviously yammed on the last few pieces.

Franks old hostess, Lisa, about to clean a million pieces of gear!!!

very good route btw, hard to imagine dereck hersey onsight soloing that thing!!!

edit: i found carol's crack to be much easier than mr clean, along with the direct sw. maybe because the other two are locker fingers compared to the tight hands here. Feb 19, 2008
Brian Weinstein
Brian Weinstein  
Great pic Guy...very reminiscent of my experience on the route...I racked up with about 15 stoppers on their own biners...plugged and chugged. My 70 meter rope felt like a truck while clipping during those last moves. Superb Line...one of the best anywhere!!!

Tom...I found this thing slightly easier then Carol's Crack... Mar 5, 2008
David Champion
Centennial, CO
David Champion   Centennial, CO
Unless you lead comfortably a grade or two harder than this climb, you'd be best advised to not try to link Ps 1 and 2. After climbing it we watched two strong leaders try this, and just fail to reach the anchors. Rope weight/drag was undoubtedly a factor. The P1 belay is not uncomfortable--though not visible from the base there's an adequate ledge there. Sep 6, 2011
Do not stop at the first set of anchors. Leader fall at the crux could result in a proverbial ass hat. Dec 3, 2012
Joel McKillop
Spearfish, SD
Joel McKillop   Spearfish, SD
Anchors replaced August 4, 2015 Aug 11, 2015
eddie m
eddie m  
This route, or at least the first pitch, is insanity. Soooo much fun, endless locks on great rock. Oct 12, 2015
Can you reach the summit on this route? Jun 29, 2016
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
When it's not closed for falcon nesting, yes. Jun 30, 2016
Lenore Sparks
Dolores, CO
Lenore Sparks   Dolores, CO
New beta: link the second and the third pitch for a FULL 80 meter fun festival. Matt and I soloed to the first anchor (5.6) tied our 80 meter rope as short as possible, and climbed this rig in one perfect, giant climb. The anchor on the third pitch is 81 meters from the first anchor, so you will have to belay the follower from the chock stone just shy of the anchor unless you have a 90 meter rope. Also, a 90 meter rope will get you back to the 2nd pitch hanging belay anchors, but not an 80 meter. So you need a tag line with an 80 m. I Put extended draw on the roof piece, and I encountered NO rope drag. Just a heavy clip by the end. Hopefully someone will have time to clean the plants out of the third pitch, because the third pitch is just as fun as the second. We topped out by climbing the pitch just right of the third anchor. This is 45 meter pitch and very loose, but fun. Be careful what you grab.

Gear beta for linking pitch two and three:
Nuts, double set of finger sizes, four 0.5 cams, four 0.75 cams, four #1's, six #2's, three #3's.
I ran out the offwidth, but you can place a #4 there.

This is a unique experience to find an 80 meter perfect crack with no rope drag. No hanging belay needed! Now go get it! May 30, 2017
Brent Barghahn
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
My 80m reached from the anchor below the roof to the upper ledge anchor with a tiny bit of manual stretching. This is such a unique and continuous crack, 81 meters of jamming with no stances! Skip the hanging belay and climb ledge-to-ledge per Lenore's beta for a truly novel pitch.

Walk the large ledge over to McCarthy West for an easy single 80m rope rap line. Sep 6, 2018