Mountain Project Logo

Routes in West Face

411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodguard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
Deli Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Henry Barber '77
Page Views: 12,997 total, 75/month
Shared By: Andy Johnson on Oct 4, 2003
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


61 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This climb is unbelieveable. You will want to lick your fingers when you are done just to make sure you got it all. Begin about 20 feet left of Tugley Wood. Look for the obvious small, bright yellow roof about forty feet up. Begin with a short, enjoyable approach pitch that brings one to a stance with chains below the roof. Pitch 2 is the crux. Fire through the roof (single crux move) then continue for a full-value pitch up the incredibly sustained fingers and thin-hands crack. This pitch is probably about 165 feet long with no truly great rests. The are chains at the top of the pitch. Keep your eyes open for feet out on the left face, they will save you. Pitch 3 looks fun and goes at .10a, but most parties rap at the top of the second pitch. Another great .11a testpiece very similar to Carol's crack, but slightly easier

Protection

Lots of medium and large stoppers. Many cams in the .5 inch to 1.5 inch range. Many hands and big hands if you plan to do the third pitch.

Photos

lenore sparks
Denver, Colorado
 
lenore sparks   Denver, Colorado
 
New beta: link the second and the third pitch for a FULL 80 meter fun festival. Matt and I soloed to the first anchor (5.6) tied our 80 meter rope as short as possible, and climbed this rig in one perfect, giant climb. The anchor on the third pitch is 81 meters from the first anchor, so you will have to belay the follower from the chock stone just shy of the anchor unless you have a 90 meter rope. Also, a 90 meter rope will get you back to the 2nd pitch hanging belay anchors, but not an 80 meter. So you need a tag line with an 80 m. I Put extended draw on the roof piece, and I encountered NO rope drag. Just a heavy clip by the end. Hopefully someone will have time to clean the plants out of the third pitch, because the third pitch is just as fun as the second. We topped out by climbing the pitch just right of the third anchor. This is 45 meter pitch and very loose, but fun. Be careful what you grab.

Gear beta for linking pitch two and three:
Nuts, double set of finger sizes, four 0.5 cams, four 0.75 cams, four #1's, six #2's, three #3's.
I ran out the offwidth, but you can place a #4 there.

This is a unique experience to find an 80 meter perfect crack with no rope drag. No hanging belay needed! Now go get it! May 30, 2017
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
When it's not closed for falcon nesting, yes. Jun 30, 2016
Can you reach the summit on this route? Jun 29, 2016
eddie m
  5.11a
eddie m  
  5.11a
This route, or at least the first pitch, is insanity. Soooo much fun, endless locks on great rock. Oct 12, 2015
Joel McKillop
Spearfish, SD
 
Joel McKillop   Spearfish, SD
 
Anchors replaced August 4, 2015 Aug 11, 2015
t.schwartz
  5.11a
t.schwartz  
  5.11a
Do not stop at the first set of anchors. Leader fall at the crux could result in a proverbial ass hat. Dec 3, 2012
David Champion
Centennial, CO
 
David Champion   Centennial, CO
 
Unless you lead comfortably a grade or two harder than this climb, you'd be best advised to not try to link Ps 1 and 2. After climbing it we watched two strong leaders try this, and just fail to reach the anchors. Rope weight/drag was undoubtedly a factor. The P1 belay is not uncomfortable--though not visible from the base there's an adequate ledge there. Sep 6, 2011
Brian Weinstein
  5.11a
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11a
Great pic Guy...very reminiscent of my experience on the route...I racked up with about 15 stoppers on their own biners...plugged and chugged. My 70 meter rope felt like a truck while clipping during those last moves. Superb Line...one of the best anywhere!!!

Tom...I found this thing slightly easier then Carol's Crack... Mar 5, 2008
TomKingsbury  
 
Haha,

nice shot, the time i posted it, got teased, because i obviously yammed on the last few pieces.

Franks old hostess, Lisa, about to clean a million pieces of gear!!!

very good route btw, hard to imagine dereck hersey onsight soloing that thing!!!

edit: i found carol's crack to be much easier than mr clean, along with the direct sw. maybe because the other two are locker fingers compared to the tight hands here. Feb 19, 2008
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
I found this great shot of Mr. Clean on ST. Photo Jan 30, 2008
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.11a
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.11a
Cracks just don't get much better than this one! If you have one route to aspire to at this amazing Devils Tower, it should be MR. CLEAN! Sep 7, 2006
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Truly a world-class route. Put some nuts on single 'biners (~ #6 thru #11 stopper sizes) and just "drop 'em in and clip 'em". Good spots for 4 or 5 each of #0.75 and #1 Camalot sizes, too.

As mentioned above, passing the yellow roof is the technical crux of the pitch. Nothing after that approaches .11a for any single move, it's just super enduro. Don't miss the killer rest on the arete to the right at ~75 feet out.

Pitch 3 looks really good- we rapped off at end of p.2 Sep 7, 2006
Andy Johnson  
 
I would definately agree with the above comment. However, unlike many Devils Tower routes, this one does protect very well with cams. Still you could easily sew this one up with bombproof stoppers. Oct 7, 2003