Avg: 3.9 from 106
votes
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
This climb is unbelieveable. You will want to lick your fingers when you are done just to make sure you got it all. Begin about 20 feet left of Tugley Wood. Look for the obvious small, bright yellow roof about forty feet up. Begin with a short, enjoyable approach pitch that brings one to a stance with chains below the roof. Pitch 2 is the crux. Fire through the roof (single crux move) then continue for a full-value pitch up the incredibly sustained fingers and thin-hands crack. This pitch is probably about 165 feet long with no truly great rests. The are chains at the top of the pitch. Keep your eyes open for feet out on the left face, they will save you. Pitch 3 looks fun and goes at .10a, but most parties rap at the top of the second pitch. Another great .11a testpiece very similar to Carol's crack, but slightly easier
Lots of medium and large stoppers. Many cams in the .5 inch to 1.5 inch range. Many hands and big hands if you plan to do the third pitch.
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Fort Collins, CO
As mentioned above, passing the yellow roof is the technical crux of the pitch. Nothing after that approaches .11a for any single move, it's just super enduro. Don't miss the killer rest on the arete to the right at ~75 feet out.
Pitch 3 looks really good- we rapped off at end of p.2 Sep 7, 2006
Colorado
Fort Collins CO
nice shot, the time i posted it, got teased, because i obviously yammed on the last few pieces.
Franks old hostess, Lisa, about to clean a million pieces of gear!!!
very good route btw, hard to imagine dereck hersey onsight soloing that thing!!!
edit: i found carol's crack to be much easier than mr clean, along with the direct sw. maybe because the other two are locker fingers compared to the tight hands here. Feb 19, 2008
Tom...I found this thing slightly easier then Carol's Crack... Mar 5, 2008
Centennial, CO
Spearfish, SD
Delta, CO
Bishop, CA
Gear beta for linking pitch two and three:
Nuts, double set of finger sizes, four 0.5 cams, four 0.75 cams, four #1's, six #2's, three #3's.
I ran out the offwidth, but you can place a #4 there.
This is a unique experience to find an 80 meter perfect crack with no rope drag. No hanging belay needed! Now go get it! May 30, 2017
Flagstaff, AZ
Walk the large ledge over to McCarthy West for an easy single 80m rope rap line. Sep 6, 2018
Boulder, CO
Don't link P1/2. The P1 ledge is not huge, but good enough to stand and flake the rope on the side. Linking P2/3 and going ledge to ledge is mega, but doable. The quality, however, decreases dramatically after the P2 anchors, changing in character from less traffic, vegetation, and the edges of the crack also get slightly more round - beware. Save some smaller pieces (0.5/.75/1) for P3 if linking, and don't expect it to be a hand crack the whole way. Further beta: milk the jug rest right above the roof as well as the arete rest about 80' up, they are the only two true rests other than resting in the crack itself. I'd do this climb over and over again, but would rap after P2 on future ascents. May 17, 2023