Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Jim Schlinkmann, Mateo Pee Pee and Carl Coy
Page Views: 3,408 total · 22/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on Apr 27, 2006
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Steve Gardiner's guidebook says "Destined to become another short West face classic". INDEED! The first half of the pitch is a fun 5.8 hand crack that many consider "tricky"... and the second half is nothing short of incredible. Face moves and a thin crack in the dihedral really mix it up. Keep your head... the crux moves come in the final 20 feet.

Location

The route is located two cracks left of Brokedown Palace.

Protection

RP's, two sets stoppers and BD Camalots to #3.

Photos

TomKingsbury  
 
although the route looks grassy from below, you are actually climbing the crack on the right face, which is quite clean; and proves to be another tower classic!

pk

on a side note, this is pitch one of layton kor's 'saber' route, first climbed in 1964 Oct 16, 2007
Jeff G.
Lyons
  5.10d
Jeff G.   Lyons
  5.10d
A must do on the classic 5.10 tour of the Tower. May 22, 2009
CodyE
Utah
 
CodyE   Utah
 
Great route with fun climbing, can be top roped with an 80 meter rope. This route is clean as of July 2015 Aug 3, 2015
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
Unique route and interesting climbing. The climb doesn't look good from the ground, but it climbs way better than it looks. The bottom is a bit mungy and loose, but it is easy, so don't let that deter you from getting on this classic.

Anchor replaced by Cali Terveen and Taylor Lais on 10/22/16. Sep 23, 2016