Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: Carl Coy, Mateo Pee Pee, Stu Richie, Rob Adair & Dan Hutchens, August 7, 1986
Page Views: 646 total · 20/month
Shared By: matt hoffman on Aug 31, 2021
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This Devils Tower forbidden classic is often overlooked in favor of its many mediocre neighbors (like Mr. Clean).  This route forces you to use all of your finely honed Tower skills, including wide stemming, face climbing, and desperate jamming, all while using gear you would not want to hang your grandmother's underwear off of.  Fabulous movement with 5-star tenuous stances.  You just might pee pee your pants.

Do not miss this route!  Beware: Devils Tower Rangers have been known to ticket climbers who ignore this ultra-mega-classic.  

Location Suggest change

Right of Jerry's Kids, 5 cracks left of the garbage route Mr. Clean

Protection Suggest change

Offset nuts, RPs, many micro cams and micro offset cams, gear to .75, one draw for the protection bolt, big brass balls

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