Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Nathan Kutcher & Rebecca Lewis
Page Views: 1,958 total · 14/month
Shared By: chossmonkey on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Climb pitch one of Oneway Sunset. At the 1st belay go left onto California Dreaming. At the chains for California Dreaming keep going up to the big roof. Stem your way out the roof out onto the face. A #1 WC Rock mid roof and a 3/8" RB at the lip protect the moves out the roof. Follow the thin crack up to the crux and a two bolt anchor. Continue up the crack using a combination of stemming, jamming and face moves. Follow this corner crack system to the top. A belay could be set at the Cali. Dreaming chain anchor but running it all together makes for one excellent long pitch. Rap the route.

Location

The route climbs the line of the Oneway Sunset Rappel route. Climb pitch one of Oneway Sunset. At the 1st belay go left onto California Dreaming. At the chains for California Dreaming keep going up to the big roof.

Protection

Double set of mid to small nuts, one set of larger nuts. Double set of cams from 0 Metolius to #3 Camalot plus a #4 & 4.5 Camalot, 3/8"RB, Double length runners for under the roof.

Photos

Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
By "RB" do you mean removable bolt? Kind of a wierd piece to use on a crack route. Sep 18, 2015