Type: Trad, Aid, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: p1. F. Sanders 1989 p2.-3. F. Sanders, P. Kingsbury, J. Kilroy Oct 4 2007
Page Views: 5,224 total · 38/month
Shared By: TomKingsbury on Oct 12, 2007
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

P1. straight foward aid leads to a thin section requiring beaks, rurps and stacks. (A3+) 140'.

P2. as many blades as you can bring, a marathon of a pitch. (A2+) 165'.

P3. Thin aid mixed with a few larger pieces in bad rock lead to a point where one is forced to free climb. (5.5, A4-) 100'

P4. 'The Kor Chimney', shares the same exit as 'Saber'. Follow the left leaning chimney right side in. (5.6) 100'

Location

in the middle of the west face, two cracks left of 'spank the monkey'

Protection

Standard tower aid rack, including lots of blades and beaks, and gear up to a 5 friend.

Photos

TomKingsbury
  5.7 A4-
TomKingsbury  
  5.7 A4-
Franks description (from rc.com)

This First Pitch was first climbed in August, 1989 by Frank Sanders , solo.

Pitch 1. (140ft, 5.7, A3) Free climb, then aid up the corner. As height increases, the crack diminishes. The final 1/3 of the pitch is accomplished on hooks, RURPS, "heads" and a few tied-off blades. There is air to catch, but nothing to hit, Really. A 3-bolt belay rewards your efforts.

Pitches 2 & 3 were added in October 2007 by Patrick Kingsbury, Frank Sanders, with Faithful belays by Jessica Kilroy !!

Pitch 2. (165ft, A2)Aid on up the very slender crack until a belay can be arranged at the point where the rock becomes more broken. This is a Long, Fun aid pitch that requires many, many Knife Blades (30+), Lost Arrows and a few bigger pieces for the belay and occaissional pocket.

Pitch 3. (75ft, A3+/A4-,5.4)This one seems to be the CRUX of the climb. It is thin nailing, intersperced by large, rotten pods, through a couple bulges, until it is possible to free climb to a Very Solid Belay in the base of the Exit Chimney. (You need to take both Very Small & Very Large pieces on this one. Patrick recalls the pitch as going something like..."Baby Angle, #3.5 Camalot, Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, #4 Camalot, #2 Camalot, #5 Camalot(in a pile of Kitty Litter), #4 Camalot(in a similar pile), Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, RURP, RURP, RURP, Beaks, Beaks, Leeper-Z, Stopperhead, RURP, #2 Friend then unprotected 5.4 to the chimney belay" !!! Hats-Off to Patrick for a Bold and Innovative lead !!!

Pitch 4. (110ft, 5.6) Follow the Kor Chimney that is the Finish to the Saber Route (First climbed by Layton Kor & Steve "Tex" Bossier on April 26, 1964). Essential Gear Standard Aid Rack + 10-RURPS, 10-15 Beaks, 5-Leeper-Z, 30+ Knife Blades,6-#4&5 Friends/Camalots.


a better description than the quick one i posted....thanks Frank! Feb 12, 2008