Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,322 total · 7/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Sep 5, 2003
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Another beautiful stemming pitch. 2 stars at the Tower, 3 stars anywhere else.

This pitch climbs the right side of the pillar directly below the fist crack pitch of Tugley Wood. It is the crack directly left of the 5.9+ first pitch of McCarthy West Face. It's a long pitch, but what else is new at Devil's Tower?

Set a high belay, and stem the thin corner. There are many difficult sections on this pitch with good stances from time to time. The guidebook calls the small roof at mid-height the crux, but it really isn't much more difficult than the rest of the climb. The crack eventually widens to hands... another good rest follows before some more cruxy business exiting the corner.

A double 60m rope rappel will, just barely, deposit you at the staging area at the start to El Matador.

Protection

Lots of small-medium stoppers. Triples in BD stopper sizes #3-7 would have been perfect. Due to the nature of the crack, it doesn't take cams well. I think I placed two cams on the pitch: a green camalot at the crux and a hand sized piece in the hands section near the top of the route.

Photos

Joe Collins
  5.11a
Joe Collins  
  5.11a
I got the grade and name spelling above from the Poorperson's guide. The guide with the green cover grades the route 11b and gives the name as "Way Laid", the correct way to spell it (imagine that!). Felt like pretty easy 5.11 to me, so 11a is more like it. Sep 9, 2003
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Eric Rhicard did the FA of this route in 1981 with Mark Smedley after he fell at the crux and removed a lot of skin from his shin. The original EB climbing shoe rubber was not as sticky as the new stuff. Feb 28, 2006
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.11a
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.11a
Did this route my second year at the Tower. Interesting note: for the first half of the pitch, I thought I was on Tulgey Wood! Oops...
Apr 8, 2006
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
 
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
 
The last few moves of this climb are awesome and just a little exciting! May 27, 2008
Jordan Collins 1
Bishop, CA
Jordan Collins 1   Bishop, CA
An awesome line!!!! in an incredibly popular area. Thin gear throughout with excellent protection with fairly large fall potential at both cruxes. A worthwhile route in the 11- range with a cool move to step across left onto the mystery express/tulgey wood column. Sep 5, 2016
P1 gear: #.1(1), #.2(2), black totem, #.3(1), #.4(1), #.5(1), purple link cam (after establishing above roof), #.75(2), #2 (under roof), many small nuts (also used a micro nut before last lunge to pillar top). Some more beta: there's a nice ledge near the top that is very awkward to get into a standing position on. The crack right below that ledge will take a .75, but you should place it in before standing on the ledge, otherwise you'll have to reverse the move to place it (you can't bend down to place it without falling because the face bulges out above that ledge). May 21, 2018