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Routes in West Face

411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodguard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
Deli Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,279 total · 7/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Sep 5, 2003
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Another beautiful stemming pitch. 2 stars at the Tower, 3 stars anywhere else.

This pitch climbs the right side of the pillar directly below the fist crack pitch of Tugley Wood. It is the crack directly left of the 5.9+ first pitch of McCarthy West Face. It's a long pitch, but what else is new at Devil's Tower?

Set a high belay, and stem the thin corner. There are many difficult sections on this pitch with good stances from time to time. The guidebook calls the small roof at mid-height the crux, but it really isn't much more difficult than the rest of the climb. The crack eventually widens to hands... another good rest follows before some more cruxy business exiting the corner.

A double 60m rope rappel will, just barely, deposit you at the staging area at the start to El Matador.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Lots of small-medium stoppers. Triples in BD stopper sizes #3-7 would have been perfect. Due to the nature of the crack, it doesn't take cams well. I think I placed two cams on the pitch: a green camalot at the crux and a hand sized piece in the hands section near the top of the route.

Photos

Joe Collins  
 
I got the grade and name spelling above from the Poorperson's guide. The guide with the green cover grades the route 11b and gives the name as "Way Laid", the correct way to spell it (imagine that!). Felt like pretty easy 5.11 to me, so 11a is more like it. Sep 9, 2003
Eric Rhicard did the FA of this route in 1981 with Mark Smedley after he fell at the crux and removed a lot of skin from his shin. The original EB climbing shoe rubber was not as sticky as the new stuff. Feb 28, 2006
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.11a
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.11a
Did this route my second year at the Tower. Interesting note: for the first half of the pitch, I thought I was on Tulgey Wood! Oops...
Apr 8, 2006
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
 
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
 
The last few moves of this climb are awesome and just a little exciting! May 27, 2008
An awesome line!!!! in an incredibly popular area. Thin gear throughout with excellent protection with fairly large fall potential at both cruxes. A worthwhile route in the 11- range with a cool move to step across left onto the mystery express/tulgey wood column. Sep 5, 2016
P1 gear: #.1(1), #.2(2), black totem, #.3(1), #.4(1), #.5(1), purple link cam (after establishing above roof), #.75(2), #2 (under roof), many small nuts (also used a micro nut before last lunge to pillar top). Some more beta: there's a nice ledge near the top that is very awkward to get into a standing position on. The crack right below that ledge will take a .75, but you should place it in before standing on the ledge, otherwise you'll have to reverse the move to place it (you can't bend down to place it without falling because the face bulges out above that ledge). May 21, 2018

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