Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m)
FA: Eric Rhicard and Mark Smedley 6/1981
Page Views: 2,289 total · 9/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Sep 5, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

FA Eric Rhicard and Mark Smedley 1981
Another beautiful stemming pitch. 2 stars at the Tower, 3 stars anywhere else.

This pitch climbs the right side of the pillar directly below the fist crack pitch of Tugley Wood. It is the crack directly left of the 5.9+ first pitch of McCarthy West Face. It's a long pitch, but what else is new at Devil's Tower?

Set a high belay, and stem the thin corner. There are many difficult sections on this pitch with good stances from time to time. The guidebook calls the small roof at mid-height the crux, but it really isn't much more difficult than the rest of the climb. The crack eventually widens to hands... another good rest follows before some more cruxy business exiting the corner.

A double 60m rope rappel will, just barely, deposit you at the staging area at the start to El Matador.

Protection Suggest change

Lots of small-medium stoppers. Triples in BD stopper sizes #3-7 would have been perfect. Due to the nature of the crack, it doesn't take cams well. I think I placed two cams on the pitch: a green camalot at the crux and a hand sized piece in the hands section near the top of the route.