Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Keith Lober '77 FFA Hong/Sonnenfield '82
Page Views: 4,050 total · 37/month
Shared By: t.schwartz on Nov 22, 2009
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is an excellent climb with lots of places for small gear (hence its original name "Made for Aid"). First pitch gets you started with a thin layback/tips crack with crux sections separated by incuts for stances.(11c 110 ft). Second pitch starts out spicy with a bad button head, a pin, and small cams/nuts for protection. The crack then opens to unrelenting fingers/tips with no real rest until the last 20 feet, after the rest fire the crux(11d 140 ft). I have not done the third pitch, looks like hands? Can be rappelled with a single 80 meter rope.

Location

First crack right(south)of El Matador

Protection

Lots of small gear, there are a few spots for a #1 and a .75 camalot. hanging belays.

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
 
A surprisingly overlooked classic! The first pitch has seen a bit of activity in the last few seasons, keeping it clean...haven't done the second pitch yet, or talked to anyone who has recently, it looks to have some sizable shrubbery in a couple spots and the status of the anchor sounds questionable...anyone been on it lately? Dec 9, 2009
Actually- I think the original name was "Christians in Cam a lot". The story behind it is really funny, but I will let you do the research on that. Apr 30, 2011
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
I have just done the first pitch, but it protects well with a double set of small - medium nuts, doubles on cams from a green c3 to .75 camalot, and a single #1. Small offset cams are also useful. 2nd pitch anchors replaced by Joel McKillop and Lee Terveen on 10/22/16. Buttonhead protection bolt on pitch 2 is gone. It protects fine with small cams and nuts. And at least one pin still exists on p 2. Oct 24, 2016