Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
FA: Keith Lober '77 FFA Hong/Sonnenfield '82
Page Views: 5,126 total · 36/month
Shared By: t.schwartz on Nov 22, 2009
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is an excellent climb with lots of places for small gear (hence its original name "Made for Aid"). First pitch gets you started with a thin layback/tips crack with crux sections separated by incuts for stances.(11c 110 ft). Second pitch starts out spicy with a bad button head, a pin, and small cams/nuts for protection. The crack then opens to unrelenting fingers/tips with no real rest until the last 20 feet, after the rest fire the crux(11d 140 ft). I have not done the third pitch, looks like hands? Can be rappelled with a single 80 meter rope.

Location

First crack right(south)of El Matador

Protection

Lots of small gear, there are a few spots for a #1 and a .75 camalot. hanging belays.

Photos