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Routes in West Face

411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodguard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
Deli Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Keith Lober '77 FFA Hong/Sonnenfield '82
Page Views: 3,940 total · 38/month
Shared By: t.schwartz on Nov 22, 2009
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is an excellent climb with lots of places for small gear (hence its original name "Made for Aid"). First pitch gets you started with a thin layback/tips crack with crux sections separated by incuts for stances.(11c 110 ft). Second pitch starts out spicy with a bad button head, a pin, and small cams/nuts for protection. The crack then opens to unrelenting fingers/tips with no real rest until the last 20 feet, after the rest fire the crux(11d 140 ft). I have not done the third pitch, looks like hands? Can be rappelled with a single 80 meter rope.

Location [Suggest Change]

First crack right(south)of El Matador

Protection [Suggest Change]

Lots of small gear, there are a few spots for a #1 and a .75 camalot. hanging belays.

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
A surprisingly overlooked classic! The first pitch has seen a bit of activity in the last few seasons, keeping it clean...haven't done the second pitch yet, or talked to anyone who has recently, it looks to have some sizable shrubbery in a couple spots and the status of the anchor sounds questionable...anyone been on it lately? Dec 9, 2009
Actually- I think the original name was "Christians in Cam a lot". The story behind it is really funny, but I will let you do the research on that. Apr 30, 2011
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
I have just done the first pitch, but it protects well with a double set of small - medium nuts, doubles on cams from a green c3 to .75 camalot, and a single #1. Small offset cams are also useful. 2nd pitch anchors replaced by Joel McKillop and Lee Terveen on 10/22/16. Buttonhead protection bolt on pitch 2 is gone. It protects fine with small cams and nuts. And at least one pin still exists on p 2. Oct 24, 2016

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