Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: P. Kingsbury, D. Lombordozzi, J. Kilroy, C. Brown Sept 29, 2007
Page Views: 907 total · 7/month
Shared By: TomKingsbury on Oct 12, 2007
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Starts by climbing a thin slab and crack that leads to the obvious roof. Pull the roof, and follow the thin crack above to a nut anchor. 130' (no go on the bolt permit) although run-out during the lower and easier slab (5.9ish), the crux is well protected with small and offset cams

Location

the crack between 'spank the monkey' and 'blotter is my spotter', with a roof about 100' of the deck.

Protection

lots of finger sized cams (yellow), rps, and some hybrid aliens. (lemon-lime for the crux)

Photos

TomKingsbury
  5.11b
TomKingsbury  
  5.11b
It is possible to toprope this route by climbing 'Spank the Monkey' (5.10d), which is one crack system to the right. 2 ropes needed. Feb 11, 2008
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Nice work Pat! This thing would be a spicy lead, and is a fun TR after climbing Spank the Monkey. Delicate, insecure, flared stuff similar in flavor to Deadpoint. Jun 16, 2008