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Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset)

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13


 Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes

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One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jim Brink, Dick Holm - 1986
Page Views: 1,476 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jeff G. on May 21, 2009
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Very nice face climbing along a grassy seam. This is a great direct start to the all time classic finger crack of One Way Sunset. No fixed gear with this start and a pure line. Well worth doing. Crux is near the top just before it joins the regular start. Insecure and foot intensive for several moves at the crux. Books all say 12a. May be soft for the grade. The Wrong Way start by itself does not warrant 4 stars but when combined with the finger crack on One Way Sunset it is a super classic pitch.

Location

Starts just right of the normal One Way Sunset start. It is the direct line up to the beautiful finger crack of One Way.

Protection

pro is better than it appears from below, however, I don't think this is led very often. I had to clean the seam on rap with a nut tool to expose the stopper placements. Good medium stoppers, one or two rps, and a few small cams provide good protection although it is a little spaced through the mid section of the route. The top finger crack of One Way Sunset protects perfectly with small cams.

Photos

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Anus Herder
Montrose, CO
Anus Herder   Montrose, CO
This crack was filled with dirt when we went to the Tower in late 2015! We cleaned a bit, but didn't seem worth the effort to clean the entire thing out. Jan 31, 2016