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Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset)
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in West Face
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411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Alien Fry Basket T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Approaching Lavender T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bloodguard T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4- |
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Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Captain Ingram's Partisan Rangers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Captain Video T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2- |
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Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Good Holds for Godzilla T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13 |
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Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3 |
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Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Out of Sync T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ |
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Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Pee Pee's Plunge T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ponzo's Botatoes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Potatoes Alien T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Zen & the Art of Route Development T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Jim Brink, Dick Holm - 1986 |
| Page Views: | 2,352 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff G on May 21, 2009 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
Very nice face climbing along a grassy seam. This is a great direct start to the all time classic finger crack of One Way Sunset. No fixed gear with this start and a pure line. Well worth doing. Crux is near the top just before it joins the regular start. Insecure and foot intensive for several moves at the crux. Books all say 12a. May be soft for the grade. The Wrong Way start by itself does not warrant 4 stars but when combined with the finger crack on One Way Sunset it is a super classic pitch.
Location
Starts just right of the normal One Way Sunset start. It is the direct line up to the beautiful finger crack of One Way.
Protection
pro is better than it appears from below, however, I don't think this is led very often. I had to clean the seam on rap with a nut tool to expose the stopper placements. Good medium stoppers, one or two rps, and a few small cams provide good protection although it is a little spaced through the mid section of the route. The top finger crack of One Way Sunset protects perfectly with finger size cams.
Photos
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