Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bill Hatcher, Todd Skinner, Rick Erker. 1985
Page Views: 1,567 total · 17/month
Shared By: Sean Nelb on Jun 11, 2011
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Fingers! Billie Bear climbs a thin crack at the bottom of the huge dihedral on the West Face's right side. Pick your way up the delicate climbing down low on Abject Cathexis until you reach the horizontal break. Traverse right into another finger crack that steepens and leans slightly left. Follow this to the top of the column that makes up the left side of the South West Buttress. Clean, sequential, pumpy, and difficult, but with excellent pro. Crank it!

Location

Start on the Abject Cathexis finger crack at the right side of the West Face.

Protection

Finger sized nuts, cams. Bolted anchor.

Photos

slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
really good route for trying to break into easy 12. actually, for the tower it is probably the perfect route for doing so. it is pretty short, most of the climbing is easy, the crux is only about 15 feet of straight forward climbing that is easier than it looks. the left wall is lichen covered, but fortunately quite grippy. you can place great stoppers that don't interefere with the locks. the crux is probably just taking the pain of the locks. surprised it doesn't get more traffic, i think the published grade kind of keeps folks off it. Sep 23, 2011
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
  5.12b/c
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
  5.12b/c
Great short and pumpy route. Unique for the tower.Takes great gear, cams or nuts, just difficult to hang out and place. If you're not sure about leading it and want to suss out gear, you can climb Accident Victim, 5.7, just to the right and shares the anchor. I thought the grade was warranted, but it is a short crux section. Sep 3, 2017