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Routes in West Face

411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodguard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
Deli Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bill Hatcher, Todd Skinner, Rick Erker. 1985
Page Views: 1,266 total, 16/month
Shared By: Sean Nelb on Jun 11, 2011
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Fingers! Billie Bear climbs a thin crack at the bottom of the huge dihedral on the West Face's right side. Pick your way up the delicate climbing down low on Abject Cathexis until you reach the horizontal break. Traverse right into another finger crack that steepens and leans slightly left. Follow this to the top of the column that makes up the left side of the South West Buttress. Clean, sequential, pumpy, and difficult, but with excellent pro. Crank it!

Location

Start on the Abject Cathexis finger crack at the right side of the West Face.

Protection

Finger sized nuts, cams. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
  5.12b/c
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
  5.12b/c
Great short and pumpy route. Unique for the tower.Takes great gear, cams or nuts, just difficult to hang out and place. If you're not sure about leading it and want to suss out gear, you can climb Accident Victim, 5.7, just to the right and shares the anchor. I thought the grade was warranted, but it is a short crux section. Sep 3, 2017
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
really good route for trying to break into easy 12. actually, for the tower it is probably the perfect route for doing so. it is pretty short, most of the climbing is easy, the crux is only about 15 feet of straight forward climbing that is easier than it looks. the left wall is lichen covered, but fortunately quite grippy. you can place great stoppers that don't interefere with the locks. the crux is probably just taking the pain of the locks. surprised it doesn't get more traffic, i think the published grade kind of keeps folks off it. Sep 23, 2011