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Elevation: 4,451 ft 1,357 m
GPS: 44.59062, -104.71615
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 171,599 total · 644/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Jul 19, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
Warning Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

These are the routes you can see from the parking lot. They are all accessed by the west face approach and encompass all routes from the NE shoulder on the left to the large leaning pillar on top of the SW buttress (Durrance pillar) on the right. The routes on the West face are some of the cleanest and most accessible routes on the tower. Ultra-classics include Carol's crack, McCarthy's west face, El Matador, Tugley Wood, and many more. As with the other sides of the tower, the "good" climbing is on the lower 2/3 with easy bolted rappels before the less appealing rock. Most routes will require a two-rope descent.

Getting There Suggest change

Leave the main trail shortly after the trail starts heading south parallel to the tower, at the same place the Durrance approach leaves the trail. Hike up the boulderfield to the base of the tower. Locate the obvious stem box with two five-foot wide dihedrals facing each other for 150' and a ledge at the end of the left pillar (El Matador). Most west face routes are left of here. Right of El Matador, see Durrance Approach. Sparse poison ivy is often encountered on the hike/scramble north to Carol's crack area.

51 Total Climbs

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Location: West Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 131
Tulgey Wood
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 138
McCarthy West Face (Variant)
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 168
One Way Sunset
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 308
El Matador
Trad 5 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 28
Spank The Monkey
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 67
Carol's Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 96
Mr. Clean
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
California Dreaming
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 41
McCarthy West Face/Hong
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Avalon
Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 29
Bloodguard
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 20
A Bridge Too Far
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 19
Digital Extraction
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Brokedown Palace
Trad 4 pitches
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 18
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tulgey Wood
 131
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
McCarthy West Face (Variant)
 138
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
One Way Sunset
 168
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
El Matador
 308
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
Spank The Monkey
 28
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Carol's Crack
 67
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Mr. Clean
 96
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
California Dreaming
 26
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
McCarthy West Face/Hong
 41
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Avalon
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Bloodguard
 29
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
A Bridge Too Far
 20
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Digital Extraction
 19
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Brokedown Palace
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad
 18
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in West Face »

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