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Routes in West Face

411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Approaching Lavender T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodguard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
Deli Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

These are the routes you can see from the parking lot. They are all accessed by the west face approach and encompass all routes from the NE shoulder on the left to the large leaning pillar on top of the SW buttress (Durrance pillar) on the right. The routes on the West face are some of the cleanest and most accessible routes on the tower. Ultra-classics include Carol's crack, McCarthy's west face, El Matador, Tugley Wood, and many more. As with the other sides of the tower, the "good" climbing is on the lower 2/3 with easy bolted rappels before the less appealing rock. Most routes will require a two-rope descent.

Getting There

Leave the main trail shortly after the trail starts heading south parallel to the tower, at the same place the Durrance approach leaves the trail. Hike up the boulderfield to the base of the tower. Locate the obvious stem box with two five-foot wide dihedrals facing each other for 150' and a ledge at the end of the left pillar (El Matador). Most west face routes are left of here. Right of El Matador, see Durrance Approach. Sparse poison ivy is often encountered on the hike/scramble north to Carol's crack area.

43 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 87
Tulgey Wood
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 29
Fractal
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 85
McCarthy West Face (Variant)
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 99
One Way Sunset
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 177
El Matador
Trad 5 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
Spank The Monkey
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 43
Carol's Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 62
Mr. Clean
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 27
McCarthy West Face/Hong
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
California Dreaming
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 15
Bloodguard
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
A Bridge Too Far
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
Digital Extraction
Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
Deli Express
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Brokedown Palace
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tulgey Wood
 87
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Fractal
 29
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
McCarthy West Face (Variant)
 85
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
One Way Sunset
 99
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
El Matador
 177
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
Spank The Monkey
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Carol's Crack
 43
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Mr. Clean
 62
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
McCarthy West Face/Hong
 27
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
California Dreaming
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Bloodguard
 15
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
A Bridge Too Far
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Digital Extraction
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Deli Express
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Brokedown Palace
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in West Face »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
In August of 1999 with his blessing I did a couple first ascents of routes that Dingus McGee had bolted but had not been able to climb. One of them is the bolt line up the arete just right of One Way Sunset. Dave Larsen, Dean Brault and I rated it 5.12 and called it Astro Glide. Has anyone else done this route? How hard did you think it was? I will add them to the list soon. The second is the bolted dihedral above Buckspeck. This one Dean Brault and I rated 5.12- and called it Team Ropin'. This one is on the north face as I recall. Same questions about this route. Feb 28, 2006
I have looked at both routes mentioned, but didn't try them due to the quality of the bolts. Team Ropin' looks rad, we rapped over it after doing the 'stepping out of flatland'(was going to t/r it, but ran outta time);('flatland' also crappy bolts). It would be a great community service to replace those bolts w/ good ones. (buckspeck, team ropin', steppin over, and astroglide all need new hardware, among others, second pitch of soler eclipse aswell) Permits are easy to get although w/ a hand drill the replacement might take forever. Was up there in august and october '06. 5.12 looks about right though.
(toms brother pat) Nov 9, 2006
Will Buckman
Devils Tower
Will Buckman   Devils Tower
Just a heads up, the 2014 Falcon closure for the west face of Devils Tower is over. Come enjoy the shady side and some sweet cracks!
Thank you climbers for abiding by the closure and allowing a pair of nesting peregrine falcons to successfully fledge two chicks. Those chicks are becoming skilled aviators and are out eating pigeons daily.

There will be an official announcement sent out on Monday.

Cheers,
W. Aug 2, 2014

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