Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: FFA: Mateo Pee Pee, Jim Schlinkmann 1985
Page Views: 565 total · 6/month
Shared By: Sean Nelb on Aug 27, 2011
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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7 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Bonzo might not have had much, but you will. No Holds offers a variety of finger jams, stemming, face climbing and even some possible chimneying all in one pitch. Rarely climbed, but definitely deserving of more attenion. Climb over a bulge and into the corner, following this to the top of the pitch. Unfortunately, this route is often grassy. It can be cleaned on rappel from the Potatoes Alien anchors.

Location

Start in the acute-angled corner a few cracks left of Bloodguard and immediately left of Potatoes Alien.

Protection

small-med nuts, finger sized cams. Rappel anchor.

Photos

CodyE
Utah
 
CodyE   Utah
 
This is a great route and is clean as of July 2015 Aug 3, 2015
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
Another awesome stemming corner at the tower. Fairly clean 9/2016. Tricky start leads to sustained stemming. Some rest can be had up higher on the route.

Anchor replaced by Lee Terveen and Joel McKillop on 10/22/16. Sep 23, 2016