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No Holds for Bonzo
5.11b,
Trad, 110 ft (33 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 10
votes
FA: FFA: Mateo Pee Pee, Jim Schlinkmann 1985
Wyoming
> Devils Tower
> W Face
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details:
nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/… Climbing MGMT Plan
nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/… Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
Bonzo might not have had much, but you will. No Holds offers a variety of finger jams, stemming, face climbing and even some possible chimneying all in one pitch. Rarely climbed, but definitely deserving of more attenion. Climb over a bulge and into the corner, following this to the top of the pitch. Unfortunately, this route is often grassy. It can be cleaned on rappel from the Potatoes Alien anchors.
Location
Start in the acute-angled corner a few cracks left of Bloodguard and immediately left of Potatoes Alien.
Protection
small-med nuts, finger sized cams. Rappel anchor.
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Utah
Moab, UT
Anchor replaced by Lee Terveen and Joel McKillop on 10/22/16. Sep 23, 2016
Las Cruces