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McCarthy West Face/Hong

Name: McCarthy West Face/Hong
Rating: 3.9

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in West Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Alien Fry Basket T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Approaching Lavender T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Bloodguard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
	Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Captain Ingram's Partisan Rangers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Captain Video T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
	Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Good Holds for Godzilla T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
	Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
	Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	One O'Clock Demo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Out of Sync T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+
	Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Pee Pee's Plunge T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ponzo's Botatoes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Potatoes Alien T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Zen & the Art of Route Development T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	44.59062, -104.71615
FA:	FA Jim McCarthy and John Rupley 7/1955; FFA Hong and Budding 1979
Page Views:	6,046 total · 22/month
Shared By:	Paul Heyliger on Nov 24, 2003 · Updates
Admins:	Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE

The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.

Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.

Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.

Description

This route takes the typically combined Hong Variation to McCarthy West Face, and is yet another brilliant route that graces the West Face. Begin two cracks left of the start to the obvious El Matador, and pass two cruxes on the first pitch: a layback/finger crack over a roof (11b), and then just below the belay ledge is a slightly easier (11a/b) mantle/face problem. The stunning second pitch (11c) takes the much-photographed splitter on the right, starting with thin hands and then stemming out left and up the thinning crack to a final crank up and right (crux) to the top of the column. Bomber gear the whole way. A beautiful and extremely fine climb.