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Routes in West Face

411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodguard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
Deli Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hong and Budding 1979
Page Views: 3,732 total, 22/month
Shared By: Paul Heyliger on Nov 24, 2003
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route takes the typically combined Hong Variation to McCarthy West Face, and is yet another brilliant route that graces the West Face. Begin two cracks left of the start to the obvious El Matador, and pass two cruxes on the first pitch: a layback/finger crack over a roof (11b), and then just below the belay ledge is a slightly easier (11a/b) mantle/face problem. The stunning second pitch (11c) takes the much-photographed splitter on the right, starting with thin hands and then stemming out left and up the thinning crack to a final crank up and right (crux) to the top of the column. Bomber gear the whole way. A beautiful and extremely fine climb.

Protection

RP's, many small-large stoppers, and small-medium Friends

Photos

Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
1st pitch is awesome and unique climbing for the tower, not too sustained. 2nd pitch is the original mccarthy west route I believe and is awesome as well. So splitter! Oct 4, 2016
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
have only done the first pitch a few times. 3 cruxy spots - barn door roof sort of deal, then a short section that looks really easy but feels kind of tough, then blankish spot that you just kind of have to 'float' through. we always seem to run out of time before being able to try that spectacular looking 2nd pitch. need to get out of bed earlier. Sep 23, 2011
I think you can do the crux at the top of pitch 2 two different ways. I have seen people exit the actual crack to the right just before the top as per the route description above. I stemmed the crack all the way to the top of the pillar. That felt about 5.12- to me. Jul 14, 2011
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
My comments are for p.1 only- haven't tried the 2nd pitch (McCarthy West Face route)...

A little different from most Tower pitches that I've climbed, this one features a stress-type fracture that runs up and down one particular column (as opposed to the typical crack here that actually separates the columns). Interesting and sustained climbing, but with a couple of good rests. A #1 and a couple of #0.75 camalots for the thin hand crack below the roof, with doubles of smaller cams and some stoppers for the rest of the pitch above that. Sep 7, 2006
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.11c
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.11c
Awkward crux that totally BAFFLED me...

SPECTACULAR views... Apr 8, 2006