Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: 1985- Schlinkmann, Pee Pee, Fisher
Page Views: 1,332 total · 9/month
Shared By: nolteboy on Sep 5, 2006
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Although probably not a route that you're going to roadtrip to the Tower to do, this pitch is pretty worthwhile, especially as a warmup for MR. CLEAN (if TULGEY WOOD is occupied). Some stemming (can ya believe that?), a small roof or two, and generally "cerebral" the whole way- not just a stem-it or plug-it pitch, but one to get those neurons firing...

Location

Take the West Face approach. If you can locate the route MR. CLEAN, this route is about 6 or 7 crack systems to the left of it, and climbs an inside corner between two pillars which terminate in ledges about 120 feet up (the left-hand pillar has a large square-cut roof above it).

This route is the 2nd crack to the right of BLOODGUARD.

Protection

Mostly stoppers and smallish cams, with a medium cam or two nearer the top. Three bolts provide protection when the crack seams down. Overall protection is good - better than it looks from below.

Photos

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.10c PG13
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.10c PG13
Make sure you bring a set of offset nuts (7-11) for this climb. You will miss a couple bomber placements, if you don't. May 22, 2012
Jordan Collins 1
Bishop, CA
Jordan Collins 1   Bishop, CA
Offsets would be nice for certain sections, however the route was perfectly safe and protectable without offsets. An awesome route with thoughtful stemming and a little bit of a runout in certain spots. Sep 5, 2016
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
Anchor replaced by Taylor Lais and Cali Terveen on 10/22/16. Oct 24, 2016