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Routes in West Face

411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodguard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
Deli Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Carl Coy & Mallory Ham
Page Views: 959 total · 7/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on Mar 4, 2007
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

If you still have gas in your tank... and feeling in your calves... complete this variation to El Mat. Very thin fingers and (surprise) stemming beckon you to step right off of the El Mat ledge. Climb to the gray roofs and traverse left to rejoin the El Mat line to a "lovely" (note the sarcasm) bolted hanging belay.

Location

Pass the box stem of El mat... and La Vaca Solitaria IS the right crack.

Protection

Stopper and BD Camalots to #1... plus whatever you choose for El Matador.

Photos

Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
 
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
 
Excellent route, and really varied finger crack and stemming. It needs a little traffic to clean up some of the lichen. Well worth the effort. Jul 23, 2017
The anchors at the top have been replaced as of 07/20/2017. Jul 23, 2017
The step across into the crack from the matador anchors was tricky but not incredibly difficult (not a 5.11 move) The route seemed quite sustained at 11a for the first half with tricky placements, it lets up considerably for a while in the middle and finishes with an awesome roof. The anchors on this climb are not suitable for rappelling so consider going to the top if you are doing this route. Sep 5, 2016
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
 
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
 
This route is very good and would see a lot more action if it didn't start two pitches up. Most of the route is quite easier than 5.11a, with fun and suprising varied climbing throughout. The traverse from the El Matador anchor is not as hard as it looks and can be protected with a #2 camalot high in the left crack before stepping off the ledge. Aug 18, 2011
Dave E.
washington
Dave E.   washington
have you done this? it seems improbable to step right off the ledge atop pitch 2 of el mat, i did look at it for awhile. maybe the line goes into the right crack without stopping at the ledge? either way, that would be a super proud way to send this line Aug 5, 2009