All Locations > Wyoming > Devils Tower > W Face

Avalon

Name: Avalon
Rating: 3.6

5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in West Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Alien Fry Basket T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Approaching Lavender T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Bloodguard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
	Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Captain Ingram's Partisan Rangers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Captain Video T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
	Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Good Holds for Godzilla T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
	Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
	Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	One O'Clock Demo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Out of Sync T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+
	Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Pee Pee's Plunge T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ponzo's Botatoes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Potatoes Alien T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Zen & the Art of Route Development T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
GPS:	44.59062, -104.71615
FA:	Skinner and Wald, 1984
Page Views:	4,416 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Paul Heyliger on Oct 6, 2003
Admins:	Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE

The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.

Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.

Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.

Description

Climb any route to get to the large ledge at the base of the obvious huge roof (Avalon/Brokedown Palace) near the left-center of the West face. Of the usual options, Jerry's Kids is the most even and well-protected. Avalon takes the left-hand crack up and out the left side of the obvious roof. The section off the ledge is the crux (11d), with a small fingercrack and face edges leading up to a (surprise) no-hands rest below the roof. The climbing eases here and continues above the roof to a semi-hanging belay. The next pitch (11c) continues above on the nice finger crack, with rests, for 2/3 a rope length to a belay below the choss.

Avalon is one of the finest hard-11 routes on the Tower, with outstanding rock, superb moves, and very good protection.