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Routes in West Face

411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodguard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
Deli Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Kris Hjelle and Andy Petefish
Page Views: 805 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jeff G. on Sep 19, 2007
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a very worthwhile route to do if in the area. It makes a great warm-up for one of the super classic W. Face routes. Nice face and arete moves on good rock.

Location [Suggest Change]

Starts on a blunt arete just left of Jerry's Kids. Look for the bolts. At the fifth bolt traverse right across a slab and finish on Jerry's Kids using its last protection bolt. Finish out right on a nice ledge with a good anchor. We were able to rap back down on a single 70m.

Protection [Suggest Change]

six good bolts on the route but you will also need TCU's and small to medium stoppers.

Photos

This route is much more of a "perfect warm up" than its route to the right Jerry's Kids. Starts out with amazing arete climbing, moving back and forth on the arete for 5 bolts. A super interesting climb with just enough spice at the top to keep things interesting. DO IT. And maybe if it was too easy, continue up avalon or brokedown palace. Sep 5, 2016
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
Anchor replaced by Taylor Lais and Cali Terveen on 10/22/16. Oct 24, 2016

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