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Routes in West Face

411 Southwest T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
A Bridge Too Far T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astro Glide S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avalon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodguard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blotter is my Spotter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4-
Brokedown Palace T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the House T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Buster Cattlefield T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
California Dreaming T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carl's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deadwood Express 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2-
Deli Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Digital Extraction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Feature T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Matador T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fractal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harkness variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+ PG13
Heatwave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Jerry's Kids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Vaca Solitaria T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lack of Enthusiasm S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Livin' the Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Man Without a Planet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Express S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Holds for Bonzo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Way Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Park Politics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Scottfree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Some Like it Hot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spank The Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steal Away S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tulgey Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up In Smoke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Layed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA: Aid climbed by Fred Becky and Eric Bjornstad in 1967, FFA: Bob Yoho, Chick Holtkamp '78
Page Views: 43,828 total, 236/month
Shared By: Mark M. on Aug 13, 2002 with updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is the classic box stem on the far south end of the west face easily visable from the trail head at the parking lot. Expect tourist gawkers on this route. There is good reason for them to stare, this is one of the most unique and classic climbs in the country.

Pitch 1: Climb the ramp and short section of 5.8 to get to a big ledge on top of a broken column at the base of the box.

Pitch 2: This is the pitch you've heard about. Climb up setting gear in the crack on the left when ever you feel like it. There are some good jams and fingerlocks on your way, but you must stem your legs and in some places pure stemming is the only option. Move fast and fight the burn. Easier for taller people, but the box narrows as you get higher. Belay at the top of the lefthand column. They say no move is harder than 5.9, but endurace and pain threshold are the keys here!

P3: Climb the near-vertical hand crack directly above the belay 40 ft to large ledge with two bolts. (5.8 fun)

P4: Jam the left crack on the ledge (you do not step off the ledge to reach this crack) for about 15 ft until you can clip a pin on the left wall. The pin looked marginal so I placed a bomber large stopper. Traverse straight right on good feet to the right crack. Now place some small wires and balance up to the roof, place a small cam and crank over on finger locks (10a crux). Climb over one more small roof and a short #.75 C4 crack (5.9) to a stance with two bolts. ~90ft

P5: Climb the rotten chimney directly above (5.4) until you reach a large ledge directly below the summit. Be extremely careful not to knock any of the loose blocks in the chimney down as they will funnel directly into the stacked up climbers waiting to climb the first two pitches! From here you can climb the easier looking chimney to the left(5.4?), or the hard-to-protect crack/face directly in front of you (5.7) to two bolts. Once again be very careful what you pull on. ~150 ft

The loose rock on the last pitch is avoidable, just something to be aware of.

The standard rap descent is on the far side of the tower. It would be possible to rap the route with 2 60m ropes but you would risk dropping your rope or rocks on someone climbing below.

Protection

stoppers and small to medium cams. The less gear you set the less burned you will get!

Photos

Anchors at the top of pitch 4 have been replaced as of 7/20/2017. It is still possible to link pitches 3 and 4, or 4 and 5. This anchor is also the anchor for the top of La Vaca Solitaria. Jul 23, 2017
Biyaya
Colorado Springs, CO
Biyaya   Colorado Springs, CO
What size pro for the first 2 pitches? Jul 14, 2017
ErinA
 
ErinA  
 
The way this route is described here places the top of pitch 4 at "a stance with 2 bolts" below a rotten chimney. These are some of the sketchiest bolts I have seen in a LONG time, and I would also not describe this as a stance really. More hanging than not. But, if you continue to climb to the top of the rotten chimney (extra 40 ft ish) as described in the guidebook, you get to a huge (king-sized bed sized) ledge with some bomber bolts. I would highly recommend continuing the 4th pitch up to this ledge and skipping the sketchy bolts below the chimney section. Just be sure to have a communication plan with your belayer, since it's not so easy to hear each other over this section. Nov 1, 2016
Aaron covington
Pinon hills, ca
 
Aaron covington   Pinon hills, ca
 
be ready for the burn Oct 19, 2015
eddie m
  5.10
eddie m  
  5.10
This thing is amazing! Definitely one of the most unique pitches I've ever been on. However, giving this a yds grade seems a bit ridiculous. At 6'1" this was pretty cruiser but I imagine that had I been a foot shorter it would be nearly impossible to stem through this thing. Either way, go do this route. Oct 12, 2015
Jimmy D
Rapid City
Jimmy D   Rapid City
Does any know if pitch 3 & 4 link up nicely? Jul 21, 2015
Ross Philip
Boulder, Colorado
Ross Philip   Boulder, Colorado
I only TR'd this, but I think the key is to try using the crack as much as possible and only stem out when you really have to. The stem can wear you down quickly. Also, if you climb this in the morning, look back down to the parking lot and be amazed by the flash bulbs of the paparazzi tourists as they add pictures of you to their Devils Tower photo albums. Jul 11, 2013
Cocanower
The High Country
 
Cocanower   The High Country
 
I would say the second pitch is definitely the crux. The 10a crux feels more like 5.9. second pitch is $$$, LEAD IT!!!! Just do it quick! Oct 23, 2012
Martin le Roux
Superior, CO
Martin le Roux   Superior, CO
To answer Micah Kurtz's question: Your guess is correct. Pitch 2 ("the pitch you've heard about") is indeed the 10d pitch. Sep 25, 2012
Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
Where is the 10d pitch? I'd guess the second pitch but the route description assumes 5.9 Anyone have a better idea? Sep 18, 2012
fossana
leeds, ut
fossana   leeds, ut
The Orenczak/Lynn guide only notes a single 60' chimney pitch, but there is a second one (also short) to reach the summit. Both are marked by fixed anchors. The final anchors are at the top of the crack system climber's right of the P5 belay. Apr 23, 2012
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
excellent route. don't worry too much about your height as there is a lot to work with most of the time. even being pretty tall, i probably only did the full stem thing on maybe half of it. takes great gear the entire way. agreed with others who say no move harder than 5.9, but pretty sustained. really fun. Sep 23, 2011
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
From the top of P2, you can rap with a single 70M. Just rap to the anchors on MWFV and then to the ground. A 20ft 4th class ramp must be down climbed on the final rappel though. Oct 13, 2010
cragsavvy
Salt Lake City
cragsavvy   Salt Lake City
Go as far as you can without resting! When you get to the top, oh man are you pumped! It is well worth it, great view unbelievable climb. I'm 5'2" and the stem was a stretch in some places it was nearly impossible, but the section where steaming is necessary I was able to do. Sep 25, 2010
Alex Andrews  
 
These may be the most demanding climb in the U.S. for your legs, calf and thigh BURN!
lots of good pro, move as fast as you can to a slow the burn, Feb 3, 2010
Once was enough for me on this one, I did spend about 20 minutes stretching before we left the ground. Dec 17, 2009
The second pitch is fantastic and is one of the most memorable I have climbed. El Mat is a must do for any 5.11 climber. It takes good pro, so dont be scared to take a shot at this classic.

I cannot agree that no move is harder than 5.9. I have climbed plenty of cracks at plenty of places and some of the crack moves on the bottom half of the climb are in the 10b or 10c range although there are easier moves in between them. I cannot judge the difficulty of the upper half of the climb because I am not used to chimney stemming, but I can say that is it going to feel plenty harder than 5.9 for those of you who are not used to it.

Gear Beta for second pitch:

The climb does like medium to small pro. I took triples from 0.5 Camalot to #1 Camalot, and doubles from 0.3 inches to 0.4 inches (blue and green aliens) and I placed most of that (I place every 10 to 12 feet) and I did not have to worry too much about having to ration certain sizes on the way up. I took two sets of nuts and I placed five or so of them. Definitely do not need any Stoppers smaller than a 5. The last 30 feet or so of the second pitch do favor smaller gear in the 0.5 inch to 0.3 inch sizes, so save some tiny cams for that section.

I took two #2 Camalots and I was only able to place one of them. I do not think you could place two on the route, so do not take 2 of those. I read somewhere that it would save time to rack nuts on individual biners. I tried this strategy and I found that it burned extra time because I was not used to it and I had to fumble around to find which nut was on which biner. That is probably a better strategy for redpointing the route. If you are looking to onsite the route, I think that sticking with your normal process is the better strategy.

Rappel Beta:

We rapped from the top of the second pitch with two 60M ropes. This dumped us off on a 4th class ramp, which I did not really like. If you are not comfortable downclimbing a little 4th class, I would rap to the anchors at the top of pitch 1 and then rap to the ground. Jun 1, 2009
Rob Dillon  
 
500 keyhole stopper placements...you can't carry enough draws for all of them, but it doesn't really matter. Jun 3, 2007
reboot
.
 
reboot   .
 
Summited the tower on the route. Did the 10a variation of P4 over the right side of the roof (it was fun and felt hard for the grade). On P4, one can skip the first anchor and go about 150ft total to the next anchor. It's then another 70/80 ft to a set of anchor (look left) at the summit.

I'm 5'6 and can stem anywhere on P2, but moving off of pure stem would be quite difficult for the first 30 ft). May 29, 2007
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
The Tower's most famous pitch.

Pitch 3 is a short and fun romp after the determination and focus required for p2. Pitch 4 looked fun, too, but we got rained off. Guess I have to do it again.... Sep 9, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.10d
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.10d
I got the same pump in my calves I usually get in my forearms after leading this pitch. I think I placed about twenty pieces of gear, because the bottlenecks in the left crack were too good to pass up, and because, at any minute, I could have succumed to the pain. Mar 9, 2005
I'm 5'6 with relatively short legs and was able to stem/chimney whenever I wanted. Awesome route but oh, the pain. The pain! Sep 4, 2002
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
While unrelenting for sure, this route is very easy to protect. Continual movement is the key, and good crack holds will help along the way. I climbed this route with someone under 5'5", he climbed the crack the whole way, and only used the stem for rests! No 5.10 climber should shy away. One of a kind. Aug 18, 2002