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Routes in South and East Faces

Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R
Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Let Me Go Wild T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Ranger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walt Bailey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Window (Free), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 270 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Gary Cole, Raymond Jacquot '60
Page Views: 7,958 total, 43/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This climb has one of the more interesting pitches at the tower. The first pitch is essentially an approach pitch, but still fun (5.5). The second pitch is a long seam that is a full rope length. This originally was only possible as an aid climb, but as people kept putting larger pitons in old pin scars, the seam widened up enough to jam two fingers in each slot. Pins are no longer used, and this is currently a free climb. For the third pitch, climb a short 5.4 section to the meadows.

This route is pretty easy to find. Follow the South Face approach, passing the ladder near Bon Homme. Slightly past this point is a column separated from the tower with a bolted line up it (Roach Addition, 5.7). Start just right of this rock for the 5.5 pitch.

Protection

Nuts, Aliens, TCU's, tricams - anything for finger size on the second pitch. Standard Rack for first pitch.

Photos

Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Using Roach Addiction's first two bolts then a fun 5.8 move into the stembox is a fun way to linkup a full 70M pitch. Be sure to extend your low pieces well and enjoy! C3s and medium nuts are your best friends on this! One 70M will get you down from top of P2. Aim RIGHT for Soler Eclipse's Chains. Mar 18, 2017
Jeff McLeod
  5.10c
Jeff McLeod  
  5.10c
This pitch is full-value and badass as hell, a quintessential Tower experience. In-your-face climbing on finger locks and thin face holds with just enough rests to give you time to take it all in. There is even a mono-lock in there! Wow!

It protects well with finger and fat-finger sized pieces. Like 0.2-0.75 camalots. I placed an RP or two in there as well, so take those and the usual rack of stoppers.

The approach pitch is certainly harder than 5.5, stemming and wide jams. I can't recommend linking this with the pitch above - your belayer would not be able to see you at all, and the stance atop p1 is spacious and comfy.

You can rap this route in two raps with a 70m rope if you use the anchors on Solar Eclipse (arete to climber's right) halfway down. Nov 1, 2015
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
Both pitches can be linked together with a 70 m rope. Feb 28, 2012
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.10c
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.10c
Steve Gardiner's guide says "lieback off pin scars". As I remember, stemming is the way to go. BEAUTIFUL ROUTE!! Apr 9, 2006
Multiple #3, #4 & #5 Rocks are useful for this route.No need for anything over a .75 Camalot. Nov 6, 2004
This route is very low angle... Almost a face climb. A must do route. Beautiful stemming and finger crack with face holds. One of the best 5.10s in the USA. Get out and do it! Sep 4, 2004