Elevation: 4,601 ft
GPS: 44.59, -104.715 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 104,128 total · 475/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The South and East Faces both share the same approach. The South and East face routes are very popular, perhaps because they end up at the meadows. Once at the meadows, it is easy to top out. The most climbed routes on the tower (besides Durrance) are on the East face, including Soler and Tad. The South face also holds some popular routes, including Bon Homme Variation and Walt Bailey. Most routes are 2 long pitches to the meadows, with Walt Bailey being only one pitch. Rappel off the meadows chain anchors with two ropes for 3 rappels to reach the ground. Also, some routes have their own set of rap anchors.

Getting There

From the Devil's Tower parking lot, take the paved trail towards the tower. Take a right when the trail forks, and follow this trail around towards the south face. Look for a climber's trail taking off up towards the tower when you see a viewing tube (for looking at the old wooden ladder near Bon Homme). Follow this good trail up to some slabs near Durrance, then climb up and to the right, following the slabs around the tower. From here, it depends which route you are doing as to how far to go. Some of these approach rocks are really slick, so be careful with heavy loads.

25 Total Climbs

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Location: South and East Faces Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South and East Faces

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 81
TAD
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 93
Bon Homme Variation
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 217
El Cracko Diablo
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 314
Soler
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 208
Walt Bailey
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Cave
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 57
Hollywood & Vine
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
Dusk In Dogtown
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Double Indemnity
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 27
Soler Eclipse
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Rocksuckers
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
Direct Southeast
Trad 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Animal Cracker Land
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Let Me Go Wild
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
TAD
 81
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Bon Homme Variation
 93
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
El Cracko Diablo
 217
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Soler
 314
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Walt Bailey
 208
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Cave
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Hollywood & Vine
 57
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Dusk In Dogtown
 25
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Double Indemnity
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Soler Eclipse
 27
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Rocksuckers
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Direct Southeast
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
Animal Cracker Land
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Let Me Go Wild
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in South and East Faces »

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