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Routes in South and East Faces

Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R
Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Let Me Go Wild T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Ranger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walt Bailey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Window (Free), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 4,601 ft
GPS: 44.59, -104.715 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 60,640 total, 323/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

Description

The South and East Faces both share the same approach. The South and East face routes are very popular, perhaps because they end up at the meadows. Once at the meadows, it is easy to top out. The most climbed routes on the tower (besides Durrance) are on the East face, including Soler and Tad. The South face also holds some popular routes, including Bon Homme Variation and Walt Bailey. Most routes are 2 long pitches to the meadows, with Walt Bailey being only one pitch. Rappel off the meadows chain anchors with two ropes for 3 rappels to reach the ground. Also, some routes have their own set of rap anchors.
June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Getting There

From the Devil's Tower parking lot, take the paved trail towards the tower. Take a right when the trail forks, and follow this trail around towards the south face. Look for a climber's trail taking off up towards the tower when you see a viewing tube (for looking at the old wooden ladder near Bon Homme). Follow this good trail up to some slabs near Durrance, then climb up and to the right, following the slabs around the tower. From here, it depends which route you are doing as to how far to go. Some of these approach rocks are really slick, so be careful with heavy loads.

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Classic Climbing Routes at South and East Faces

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
TAD
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bon Homme Variation
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Cracko Diablo
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soler
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walt Bailey
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hollywood & Vine
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dusk In Dogtown
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Indemnity
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soler Eclipse
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rocksuckers
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Direct Southeast
Trad 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Animal Cracker Land
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Let Me Go Wild
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
TAD 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Bon Homme Variation 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
El Cracko Diablo 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Soler 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Walt Bailey 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Cave 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Hollywood & Vine 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Dusk In Dogtown 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Double Indemnity 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Soler Eclipse 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Rocksuckers 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Direct Southeast 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
Animal Cracker Land 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Let Me Go Wild 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in South and East Faces »

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Photos

First rap from the Meadows needs some chain pretty badly, as the current setup adds a ton of drag right at the anchor. In the meantime, pull the right strand of your rope rather than the left to minimize the chance of the rope getting stuck up top. May 19, 2016
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
I would say that the best descent route for this zone (possibly for the whole DeTow) is the Exit Us rap. This is the rap that starts with the two-bolt anchor on top of Cracko Diablo. With about 10' of 4th class downclimbing, a 70m double-rope rappel will reach the ledge at the base of Soler/TAD/Cracko. Watch your ends!

Alternatively, you can take one 70m rope and hit all the stations, getting back to the ledge in 3 or 4 raps.

IMO this area offers the least potential for getting ropes stuck, but pay attention to those below you. Cracko Diablo often has people on it.

Oct 21, 2014
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
The Meadows rappel route can be done from the summit with a 70M. There is about 3ft to spare on each rappel except for the last one that ends at the beginning of the ramp. You will need to down climb about 5ft from a good stance.

Don't get your ropes stuck! Self rescue with a single rope might be a difficult. Oct 13, 2010
This approach has a couple of exposed 4th class moves on it. If you are not comfortable with that, I would rope up for it. Jun 1, 2009
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
I have heard this area described as the "bowling alley". Many routes, and the most popular rappel all funnel into the same small area. I have seen a climber incapacitated by rockfall when this area was hoppin'. A brain bucket is not a bad idea here. Jul 11, 2002
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
This approach is generally known as The Ramp. It can be very frightening when wet or icy in places - especially going up to Bon Homme or around past the Soler/TAD area.

The best descent route is the Meadows rappel. The Bon Homme rappels have some scary downclimbing and the Durrance rappels are almost always cloged with people climbing up. Be careful of rope eating cracks when pulling rap lines. Jul 9, 2002

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