Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Steve Roach, 1991
Page Views: 4,189 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jim McGuire on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Several bolted face climbs appeared on the Tower in the late 80's and early 90's before the Park Service got wind of the drilling and put the kibosh on it. This may not be the most stellar example of these climbs but it has a fine, airy position right on the SE corner and is a great route to do while waiting in line for Soler.

Take the south face approach up "the ramp" to the broken column at the extreme right side of the south face. Continue around the nicely exposed corner onto the east face just below the chimney/corner start of Hollywood and Vine. Roach Addition climbs the face of the broken column to the left of the corner. Go up the face passing 3 bolts with a few insipient cracks between which will take some small nuts if need be. The crux is at a small overlap at the 3rd bolt. There is a two bolt anchor on the ledge for a rappel or continue up Rocksuckers or Hollywood and Vine.

It is also easy to set up a toprope here but congestion can be a problem with all the crowds passing through for Soler and Tad.

Protection

3 quickdraws and a few extra small nuts.

Photos