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Routes in South and East Faces

Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R
Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Let Me Go Wild T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Ranger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walt Bailey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Window (Free), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Steve Roach, 1991
Page Views: 3,459 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jim McGuire on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Several bolted face climbs appeared on the Tower in the late 80's and early 90's before the Park Service got wind of the drilling and put the kibosh on it. This may not be the most stellar example of these climbs but it has a fine, airy position right on the SE corner and is a great route to do while waiting in line for Soler.

Take the south face approach up "the ramp" to the broken column at the extreme right side of the south face. Continue around the nicely exposed corner onto the east face just below the chimney/corner start of Hollywood and Vine. Roach Addition climbs the face of the broken column to the left of the corner. Go up the face passing 3 bolts with a few insipient cracks between which will take some small nuts if need be. The crux is at a small overlap at the 3rd bolt. There is a two bolt anchor on the ledge for a rappel or continue up Rocksuckers or Hollywood and Vine.

It is also easy to set up a toprope here but congestion can be a problem with all the crowds passing through for Soler and Tad.

Protection

3 quickdraws and a few extra small nuts.

Photos

Paul Jacobson
  5.7
Paul Jacobson  
  5.7
This is a great route. Different than most routes at the tower. Great slab using small face holds and cracks a holds. No crack technique needed! When I heard there was only 3 bolts I was a bit freeked, but there is plenty of places for stoppers. Give it a ride. There is great exposure on this one!

Paul Feb 5, 2004
TomKingsbury  
 
There are definitely better routes at the tower, don't waste your time.

Of the 30 routes I've climbed here, this one and the first pitch of dump watt are the bottom two on the list. (although i heard that 'dump watt' was popular, and much cleaner in the 80's.)

don't get me wrong: "even the bad routes are good", but there are WAY better lines to be climbed at the Devils Tower

-Patrick Feb 19, 2008
phatline
Burlingame, CA
 
phatline   Burlingame, CA
 
Agree this is bottom of the barrel face climbing at the tower, BUT:

1. It's moderate and thus accessible to more climbers
2. It's got a GREAT, airy, full-view belay at the top
3. Rappel that can be done with one 60m rope to the ramps

The view was probably one of the widest I got at the Tower (besides the top!). Jun 6, 2009
njhamel  
I was being a gumby two weeks ago and got a nut stuck right before dark on this route and had to leave it. I'm sure it will come out with a little patience. Mar 27, 2015
Jimmy D
Rapid City
 
Jimmy D   Rapid City
 
Climbed this on accident thinking it was the first pitch of Hollywood and Vine (its not), turned out to be super fun but we had to rap down to the start of H&V. Not a classic tower pitch, but not a bad warmup either. My 2nd thought this pitch was pretty cool with great exposure. This is a slab climb, I feel grade is accurate for the style. Aug 18, 2015
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Use the first two bolts of this bad boy to approach Hollywood and Vine. Keeps the rope out of the bushes and adds a fun move (5.7/8) to step into the stembox. Just bump your first piece in the stembox high to keep the drag low. Mar 18, 2017

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