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Routes in South and East Faces

Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R
Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Let Me Go Wild T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Ranger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walt Bailey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Window (Free), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,015 total · 12/month
Shared By: Sean Nelb on Jun 17, 2011
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description [Edit]

This route is not as famous as El Matador, but the concept is the same; protect in a finger crack and jam/stem your way up the opposed dihedrals. Once the crack thins to tips up high, make a hard traverse right around a column and follow an easier crack to anchors in about 15 ft. This route puts you within spitting distance of the 1893 ladder. Look, but don't touch!

Location [Edit]

Just to the right of Bon Homme.

Protection [Edit]

Finger and thin-hand sized pieces.

Photos

Jeff McLeod
  5.11a
Jeff McLeod  
  5.11a
Classic stemming, reminiscent of El Mat, but somewhat easier because there are a few intermediate rests and it's a bit more narrow. I think the crux is fair at .11a, by the time I got there I was so worked that I couldn't figure out the sequence. 2nd try, upon further examination though, it went. For the last 30-40 feet of the stem box I was looking around the face for where to traverse over, you'll know when to do it - the crack disappears and you gotta get out of there.

For what it's worth, there were a few wasp nests in the crack on this pitch when we did it. They weren't super hostile but the encounter was certainly not amicable either. Nevertheless, my partner and I both finished it un-stung.

You can rap the first pitch with one 70m rope. Nov 1, 2015
t.schwartz
  5.11a
t.schwartz  
  5.11a
FA Steve Hong Nov 2, 2015

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