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Routes in South and East Faces

Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R
Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Let Me Go Wild T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Ranger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walt Bailey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Window (Free), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Steve Hong, Mark Smedley and Karin Budding
Page Views: 1,058 total · 13/month
Shared By: t.schwartz on Jun 20, 2011
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Direct Southeast is another great 5.11 finger crack at the Tower. Pitch one is small fingers with intricate lie-backing, trust a foot and escape to the arete or stay in the crack the whole way (90 ft). Pitch two continues up the sustained finger crack with a defined crux at about 100 ft, the climbing then becomes easier and opens up to a nice hand crack (130 ft).

Location

Rappel Bon Homme Variation

Protection

Good protection, small stoppers and cams, hand size pieces for the top of pitch two, a couple fixed pins on each pitch, bolted anchors for pitch one, pitch two requires a #2, #3, and #4 camalot for an anchor.

Photos

Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
 
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
 
A #3, #4 and #1 camalot worked great for me to make an anchor just left of the Walt Bailey bolts. I wouldn't recommend using the Walt Bailey bolts as an anchor as they are too far to the side. On the route I placed many small cams, offset cams, and some medium and small nuts, and cams up to .75 camalot. For larger gear a single #1 and #3 seemed sufficient. Linking the pitches made for a mega classic pitch and avoids the hanging belay! Overall the route felt in the same character as Hollywood and Vine, just harder. Oct 21, 2016
The first pitch on this route is short well protected and locker. If you are not feeling like doing the whole climb, just this pitch is pretty phenomenal and has a rap station. Soft 11a. Oct 5, 2016
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
 
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
 
This is a great route. It has numerous difficult moves but has some rests in spots. Both pitches can be linked together quite readily with a 70m rope. A few anchoring options in the meadows are limited, but you can also use Walt Bailey Memorial's bolts. Sep 15, 2012

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