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Routes in South and East Faces

Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R
Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Let Me Go Wild T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Ranger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walt Bailey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Window (Free), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 180 ft, Grade III
FA: John Walker, Frank Sanders
Page Views: 405 total, 2/month
Shared By: john walker on Mar 23, 2004
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This was the first free ascent of the 3rd pitch of The Devil Made Me Do It-A1. Pitch starts under large roof, climb crack with some face holds passing roof on left 5.10. climb up to foot traverse and go left to corner, climb dirty lichenous corner, sort of crumbly but good jams in the back of the crack, wear gloves. At about half way you climb over 5 meters of loose flakes, this is the psychological crux and is quite scary. As others have mentioned the top 1/3 of the tower is eroded and crumbly when compared to the lower 2/3. There is a lot of dirt, lichen and loose rock up there, it is climbable and even enjoyable but different than the sinker jams of more popular routes.

Protection

Take a standard rack with extra hexes (I used 3 #10 hexes) or large cams, Metolius TCUs and Aliens, #1-3 Camalots, Wild Country cams up to #5. Bring the iron if you want to do the first two pitches, standard rack, angles, peckers, blades, rurps, hooks, all that shit.

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