Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Rod Johnson and Pat Padden, 1973
Page Views: 40,409 total · 159/month
Shared By: Brad Boner on May 30, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

See approach for TAD and Soler. This route starts to the right of TAD, and is in my opinion by far the best route of the three mentioned. Pitch one is a good lead of about 5.7 and is well suited for those getting into trad climbing on the Tower. Pitch two is longer and is very sustained 5.8 climbing. Both pitches swollow up gear and you can protect pitch 2 with as many hand-fist sized hexes and cams as you can carry. The crux will prove to be the small bulge 2/3 up on pitch 2 and the slightly narrowing crack as it tapers toward the top of the route where it ends at the Meadows. NOTE: This route can be rappelled with two ropes in two pitches, but it's recommended that you rappell in three pitches, the third being at the anchors at the ledge about 25-30 feet up from the start of the route. Rappelling in two will increase the likelyhood of having your ropes hung up on the aformentioned ledge when it is pulled.

Protection Suggest change

P1 will take medium and larger pieces, P2 has unlimited hand-fist size placements of cams and hexes