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Routes in South and East Faces

Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R
Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Let Me Go Wild T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Ranger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walt Bailey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Window (Free), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Dennis Horning, & Brent Kertzman - 1991
Page Views: 3,386 total · 19/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 25, 2003
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


This route is pretty darn cool. It takes the arete between Soler and Hollywood and Vine.

Climb up the face left of Soler to a first bolt and commit to Soler Eclipse. Technical face and arete climbing leads to the first crux - a reachy lieback move to a great hold over the obvious roof. Immediately afterwards there is another difficult crux that involves a "I wish my shoes had C4 rubber" move. This brings you to the first (hanging) belay (hidden from view until now).

Continue up on easier (5.10a) climbing to the top - follow the bolts: there are some sucker holds that will lead you right and into bad rock at one point.

Excellent pitch.


P1: 12 bolts to an anchor. P2: Less than 12 bolts to an anchor.


Frank Sanders
Devils Tower, WY
  5.11b R
Frank Sanders   Devils Tower, WY
  5.11b R
The first pitch is Marvelous !!! It is full of "Thoughtfull" and "Figure it Out" moves,solid holds,and Fat Bolts. in ALL of the Right Places.Yes 5.11b but Full-on PG!!!

The 2nd Pitch, though technically much easier, 5.10a, is a Huge Contrast. It is quite "run out" and You need to depend on flakes that "bend" and threaten to pull off. There are only 2-3 bolts on the whole pitch and they are of lesser quality. 5.10a, Yes, but 5.10a R!!!

Soooo, just do the 1st pitch,enjoy it fully, and rap !!!! Nov 15, 2007
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
On 4/29/08 all of the old 1" buttonheads with angle iron hangers were yanked and replace with 3/8" X 4" stainless steel 5-piece bolts and new hangers. The ARI donated the bolts, Frank Sanders donated the hangers, and Scott Fitzgerald did the replacement work--a big thanks to all involved! In Frank's post above he commented that the second pitch is only protected by 2-3 bolts, by which he meant decent bolts, because the entire pitch was sport-bolted, although most of the hardware was junk. I believe the bolt count is: P1- 12 bolts, P2-7 or 8 bolts. The entire route is now safely equipped with modern equipment, and is a damn fine line! Apr 30, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Thank you Scott Fitzgerald for the retro fit. I did not remember the hangers being junk but I did get help from Dingus and he may have supplied angle iron hangers. Angle iron is way stronger than any whipper you can take on them. So despite the fears everyone has about them they have caught tons of whippers and have never to my knowledge failed. The bolts had to be 5/16ths buttonheads which despite the lack of knowledge about them (everyone thinks a buttonhead is 1/4 inch) they are really strong if placed in solid rock. But it does not matter now. I am glad you fixed it up. I did a couple of others out there that have that Dennis had set up with angle iron hangers. Astro Glide and Team Ropin'. If you guys want to replace them I would work with Frank to get the hardware. I think ARI will supply them as well. At least they did a few years ago.

Glad it is thought of as a good climb, we felt it was and spent the whole day and part of the night drilling it up. Is it still considered 5.11R or is it now just PG-13? Apr 30, 2008
Jeff McLeod
  5.11b PG13
Jeff McLeod  
  5.11b PG13
This is a great climb with difficult face moves. All of the bolts as of this past weekend are nice and bomber. The first pitch crux may be height-dependent, I'm 5'9'' and it felt very desperate to me. I felt the second pitch to be somewhere in the 5.10 range, not a gimme pitch by any means, and the bolts are well spaced - would not be fun to fall. Some holds flexed, too, and you have to stand on them. Great climbing on this pitch too though, it helps if you feel comfortable on run-out slab.

You can descend from the top of this route in two raps with a 70m rope. Nov 1, 2015
Todd Felix
  5.11b PG13
Todd Felix  
  5.11b PG13
What a wonderful way to summit Devils Tower with only 12 quick draws and a 70m rope! Both pitches are marvelous! And don't let Frank's danger warnings scare you off. All of the bolts have been replaced since then. All the bolts are good now.

Second pitch is slightly easier, but a lot spicier. Maybe some holds have broken since Frank's 5.10a rating for this pitch. I don't think it's dangerous, but I really didn't want to take the potential falls on a few thin moves. PG-13 on some solid 5.10/10+ moves. And I'll second Jeff's comment about the flexing flakes...which you then stand on. But it's still four stars. If you can climb the grade, don't skip this pitch! Oct 14, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
Can you rap after pitch 1 with a single 70M rope? Seems like a fun little route to throw in while in the Soler area! Nov 8, 2016
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
You can rap to the anchors at the start of Hollywood and Vine and then to the ground with a 70M rope. Nov 8, 2016
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
You can rappel the route with a single 70 meter rope. Oct 1, 2017

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