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Routes in South and East Faces

Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R
Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Let Me Go Wild T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Ranger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walt Bailey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Window (Free), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Mark Smedley and Jim Black 1980
Page Views: 2,433 total · 12/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Sep 30, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Location: Take the south face approach to the base of Soler, continue traversing discontinuous ledges, past some rappel anchors, until below the window (series of overhanging roofs). The climb is located just left of the overhangs in a right facing dihedral. The crack has a V-shaped pod approximately 30' off the starting ledge. Note: The traverse from Soler to the window is quite exposed.This route features many fingerlocks and edging on low angle rock, surprisingly thin for 5.10 at the tower. The footholds on the face are fantastic, and even when the crack thins and protection looks nonexistent, things materialize. Rappel after the first pitch, or continue on the steep 5.12 RP fest above.

Protection

This could easily be lead with a double rack of stoppers. Most will want a few cams up to #1 or #2 Camalot.

Photos

Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10c
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10c
This is a great route with varied climbing, good rests, and a nice crux finish. Definitely deserves at least 3 stars. May 10, 2006
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
 
If you are very mindful of the ends of the rope and belay from the highest possible stance, you can do the route and lower/rappel off with a single 70m rope. Apr 30, 2008
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
 
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
 
This is a fun and beautiful overlooked classic. Every move is memorable with Toweresque jamming and stemming. The anchor was replaced in 2015. Only a single #2 required, doubles below that. Go past El Cracko Diablo (right of the route) through some exposed scrambling sections, following the line of least resistance through some bush. Just after 5 minutes you'll reach a beautiful alcove beneath the Window, the most striking feature on the Tower. As a bonus, you can top rope 90% of Animal Cracker Land (12b) to the right. Oct 1, 2017

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