Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Mark Smedley and Jim Black 1980
Page Views: 2,587 total · 13/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Sep 30, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


Location: Take the south face approach to the base of Soler, continue traversing discontinuous ledges, past some rappel anchors, until below the window (series of overhanging roofs). The climb is located just left of the overhangs in a right facing dihedral. The crack has a V-shaped pod approximately 30' off the starting ledge. Note: The traverse from Soler to the window is quite exposed.This route features many fingerlocks and edging on low angle rock, surprisingly thin for 5.10 at the tower. The footholds on the face are fantastic, and even when the crack thins and protection looks nonexistent, things materialize. Rappel after the first pitch, or continue on the steep 5.12 RP fest above.


This could easily be lead with a double rack of stoppers. Most will want a few cams up to #1 or #2 Camalot.


Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
This is a great route with varied climbing, good rests, and a nice crux finish. Definitely deserves at least 3 stars. May 10, 2006
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
If you are very mindful of the ends of the rope and belay from the highest possible stance, you can do the route and lower/rappel off with a single 70m rope. Apr 30, 2008
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
This is a fun and beautiful overlooked classic. Every move is memorable with Toweresque jamming and stemming. The anchor was replaced in 2015. Only a single #2 required, doubles below that. Go past El Cracko Diablo (right of the route) through some exposed scrambling sections, following the line of least resistance through some bush. Just after 5 minutes you'll reach a beautiful alcove beneath the Window, the most striking feature on the Tower. As a bonus, you can top rope 90% of Animal Cracker Land (12b) to the right. Oct 1, 2017