[Hide Comment] The first pitch is Marvelous !!! It is full of "Thoughtfull" and "Figure it Out" moves,solid holds,and Fat Bolts. in ALL of the Right Places.Yes 5.11b but Full-on PG!!!

The 2nd Pitch, though technically much easier, 5.10a, is a Huge Contrast. It is quite "run out" and You need to depend on flakes that "bend" and threaten to pull off. There are only 2-3 bolts on the whole pitch and they are of lesser quality. 5.10a, Yes, but 5.10a R!!!
USER BEWARE!!!!

Soooo, just do the 1st pitch,enjoy it fully, and rap !!!! Nov 15, 2007

[Hide Comment] On 4/29/08 all of the old 1" buttonheads with angle iron hangers were yanked and replace with 3/8" X 4" stainless steel 5-piece bolts and new hangers. The ARI donated the bolts, Frank Sanders donated the hangers, and Scott Fitzgerald did the replacement work--a big thanks to all involved! In Frank's post above he commented that the second pitch is only protected by 2-3 bolts, by which he meant decent bolts, because the entire pitch was sport-bolted, although most of the hardware was junk. I believe the bolt count is: P1- 12 bolts, P2-7 or 8 bolts. The entire route is now safely equipped with modern equipment, and is a damn fine line! Apr 30, 2008

[Hide Comment] Thank you Scott Fitzgerald for the retro fit. I did not remember the hangers being junk but I did get help from Dingus and he may have supplied angle iron hangers. Angle iron is way stronger than any whipper you can take on them. So despite the fears everyone has about them they have caught tons of whippers and have never to my knowledge failed. The bolts had to be 5/16ths buttonheads which despite the lack of knowledge about them (everyone thinks a buttonhead is 1/4 inch) they are really strong if placed in solid rock. But it does not matter now. I am glad you fixed it up. I did a couple of others out there that have that Dennis had set up with angle iron hangers. Astro Glide and Team Ropin'. If you guys want to replace them I would work with Frank to get the hardware. I think ARI will supply them as well. At least they did a few years ago.

Glad it is thought of as a good climb, we felt it was and spent the whole day and part of the night drilling it up. Is it still considered 5.11R or is it now just PG-13? Apr 30, 2008

[Hide Comment] This is a great climb with difficult face moves. All of the bolts as of this past weekend are nice and bomber. The first pitch crux may be height-dependent, I'm 5'9'' and it felt very desperate to me. I felt the second pitch to be somewhere in the 5.10 range, not a gimme pitch by any means, and the bolts are well spaced - would not be fun to fall. Some holds flexed, too, and you have to stand on them. Great climbing on this pitch too though, it helps if you feel comfortable on run-out slab.

You can descend from the top of this route in two raps with a 70m rope. Nov 1, 2015

[Hide Comment] What a wonderful way to summit Devils Tower with only 12 quick draws and a 70m rope! Both pitches are marvelous! And don't let Frank's danger warnings scare you off. All of the bolts have been replaced since then. All the bolts are good now.

Second pitch is slightly easier, but a lot spicier. Maybe some holds have broken since Frank's 5.10a rating for this pitch. I don't think it's dangerous, but I really didn't want to take the potential falls on a few thin moves. PG-13 on some solid 5.10/10+ moves. And I'll second Jeff's comment about the flexing flakes...which you then stand on. But it's still four stars. If you can climb the grade, don't skip this pitch! Oct 14, 2016

[Hide Comment] Can you rap after pitch 1 with a single 70M rope? Seems like a fun little route to throw in while in the Soler area! Nov 8, 2016

[Hide Comment] You can rap to the anchors at the start of Hollywood and Vine and then to the ground with a 70M rope. Nov 8, 2016

[Hide Comment] You can rappel the route with a single 70 meter rope. Oct 1, 2017

[Hide Comment] I so happened upon these comments 15 years later. I did retro the route in early summer 2008 with Powers 5 piece SS bolts. I reused the old holes from the first bolting after removing the previous button heads with a pry bar and funkness (piton removal) tool. After starting into the project I realized the original gear was actually pretty bomber, just looked suspect. Several bolts were so difficult to remove I almost opted to leave them, but didn't because of the damage I may have already caused to the structure of them in the attempt to remove them. The button heads were NOT easy to remove even in direct pull. Apr 27, 2023