Bon Homme Variation
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Dennis Horning, Howard Hauck '72 |
Page Views: | 31,300 total · 114/month |
Shared By: | Peter Gram on Jul 25, 2002 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
Bon Homme Variation is a separate and unique climb from Bon Homme. It shares only the start. Follow the ramp to the area of the old ladder. Bon Homme is about four cracks to the left of the ladder.
Pitch 1: Climb the start of the wide Bon Homme crack. Climb past a chockstone, and then look for a traverse to the left. Face climb across the column when obvious, and get into the next crack over. Then follow this crack system (double cracks) up to a huge ledge. When I did this, I climbed this first pitch as two separate pitches. I belayed somewhere after the traverse.
Pitch 2: Climb an easier crack (5.5) to the meadows. This requires most of a rope-length. This is the left of the two available cracks on this ledge.
Pitch 1: Climb the start of the wide Bon Homme crack. Climb past a chockstone, and then look for a traverse to the left. Face climb across the column when obvious, and get into the next crack over. Then follow this crack system (double cracks) up to a huge ledge. When I did this, I climbed this first pitch as two separate pitches. I belayed somewhere after the traverse.
Pitch 2: Climb an easier crack (5.5) to the meadows. This requires most of a rope-length. This is the left of the two available cracks on this ledge.
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