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Routes in South and East Faces
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Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bittersweet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R |
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Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Delta I T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Let Me Go Wild T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Phillip's Retreat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Recidivism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walt Bailey Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Window, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.58986, -104.71457 |
| FA: | Dennis Horning & Frank Sanders, Sept. 1977 |
| Page Views: | 587 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hirsch on Apr 25, 2021 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
This is aptly named for the suffering and white knuckled climbing it takes to get to the goods. I believe many have been suckered by the two out of three star rating it was once given only to bail early on (myself included). We broke the first pitch into two since there is an old anchor at a small stance halfway up (where 'My Unsung Hero' goes left). This separates the bad climbing from the good climbing. The latter two thirds of the first pitch would be almost classic status if more accessible.
1) 5.10+ PG13, 150'
Scramble up easy terrain to gain the crack just left of the overhanging flare of 'Morchella Esculenta'. Struggle to place gear in the pinched seam or just bring some pins, as there are only two remaining. Navigate through lichen, hollow flakes, and thin face climbing to gain a quarter inch bolt. A little higher and the gear gets better just before reaching the bolted anchor. (Either belay here or keep going) Then work through a balancy, flared finger crack that eventually opens to hands. Old anchors will be in the center of the face on the left.
2) 5.6, 130'
Climb the wide crack/chimney on the left to the Meadows. (We opted out of this one)
Finding a way to rap in on pitch one would be the best way to enjoy the awesome climbing up here. Along with 'My Unsung Hero', that looks enjoyable too. I wouldn't recommend leading the first third.
3 Comments