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North Face & Northwest Corner Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in North Face & Northwest Corner

L › R R › L A › Z

	Call Evita 911 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Doldrums T C2+
	Four Play T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Friend of the Devil 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-
	Klondike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Leaping Lizards T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	McCarthy's North Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mystic and the Mulchers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Neverlasting T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	No Kiss for Dog Lips T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Psychic Turbulance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Sleight of Hand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Spiney Norman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Whine and Bruises T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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GPS:	44.59158, -104.71485 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE

The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.

Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.

Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.

Description

The North Face of the tower is the place to be to find shade on hot summer days and is the home to some classic routes with the gem being McCarthy North Face. Most routes in this area are 2 pitches of good climbing with rap bolts, although there are a few that continue to the summit which makes for one of the longest ways to get up the tower.

The North Face / NW Shoulder approach described below will put you near the start of McCarthy's, from this point (with a little effort) you can reach routes all the way to Casper College to the east and One Way Sunset to the west. In short, head up here and you are position for a day of stellar climbing!

Getting There

To reach the North Face form the parking lot head left on the paved trail past the west face. At it's farthest north point the trail will make a sharp right turn, just after this you will reach a bench on the opposite side of the trail. Look for a trail here that heads south east through the forest and follow it up to the rock. If you get lost in the woods look up and head for the tall rock pillar in front of you. Watch for Poison Ivy.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Face & Northwest Corner

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 40 ● Mystic and the Mulchers Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 6 ● Call Evita 911 Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R 32 ● Klondike Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 10 ● Leaping Lizards Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 49 ● McCarthy's North Face Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 8 ● Psychic Turbulance Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 14 ● Four Play Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 17 ● Spiney Norman Trad 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 4 ● Whine and Bruises Trad 2 pitches