Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Skinner, Daniel Rosen, Beth Wald '84
Page Views: 1,652 total · 8/month
Shared By: m.b. on Sep 3, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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6 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Located 100 or so feet left of Carol's Crack on the north end of the west face. Felt like El Matador's big brother: technical stemming on lichen with no rests unless you have Lance Armstrong's calves.

Protection

2 sets of RPs and small and medium nuts with Friends up to #1.5

Photos

Stongly consider double ropes for this route or take 10 to 12 over-the-shoulder-length slings as the protection is on two separate crack lines. Another understated Tower classic. Sep 19, 2004
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
  5.11b
Neil Kauffman   Bishop, CA
  5.11b
Simply amazing! Some of the craziest stemming I've ever encountered! Fun TR, would be a demanding lead! May 29, 2009
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
agreed, i remember the calf-pump almost blowing my eardrums out. awesome route. Jun 8, 2009
will smith
boulder
will smith   boulder
A route that is true to it's name. Double ropes for sure. You'll feel worked when you are done. Sep 11, 2013
Wally
Denver
Wally   Denver
Has anyone done this route in recent years? I had the fortune to get this really tough line many years ago. I spoke with the stud climbing ranger a couple of years ago - he said Psychic Turbulence needed some gardening work, and hadn't been climbed in years.

True? Feb 12, 2014
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
i did it memorial day weekend 2003 (not too recently). it had some scruffiness then too. i think it just doesn't get done much, which is a pity, as it is a really good route. Feb 12, 2014
Jordan Collins 1
Bishop, CA
Jordan Collins 1   Bishop, CA
Great pitch and Mega stemming the whole way, But no real difficult moves. About half way you will encounter 2 bolts in succession, Maybe 15 feet apart. As of 10/5/2016 The left crack is clean while the right crack is semi vegetated, However almost all the protection for the route is in the left crack so the shrubbery does not get in the way at all. This route is incredibly fun and definetely not 11b more like soft 11a. The hanging belay at the top of the first "5.7" pitch is rather horrible while belaying the leader on the crux. This route is cool. Oct 5, 2016
Lucas Barth
Yosemite, CA
 
Lucas Barth   Yosemite, CA
 
2nd pitch anchor and protection bolts on p2 have been replaced as of 8/2017 Sep 11, 2017