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Routes in North Face & Northwest Corner

Call Evita 911 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doldrums T C2+
Fourplay T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Friend of the Devil 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-
Klondike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Leaping Lizards T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy's North Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystic and the Mulchers T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Psychic Turbulance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleight of Hand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spiney Norman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whine and Bruises T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Skinner, Daniel Rosen, Beth Wald '84
Page Views: 1,594 total · 8/month
Shared By: m.b. on Sep 3, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


Located 100 or so feet left of Carol's Crack on the north end of the west face. Felt like El Matador's big brother: technical stemming on lichen with no rests unless you have Lance Armstrong's calves.


2 sets of RPs and small and medium nuts with Friends up to #1.5


Stongly consider double ropes for this route or take 10 to 12 over-the-shoulder-length slings as the protection is on two separate crack lines. Another understated Tower classic. Sep 19, 2004
Neil Kauffman
Neil Kauffman  
Simply amazing! Some of the craziest stemming I've ever encountered! Fun TR, would be a demanding lead! May 29, 2009

agreed, i remember the calf-pump almost blowing my eardrums out. awesome route. Jun 8, 2009
will smith
will smith   boulder
A route that is true to it's name. Double ropes for sure. You'll feel worked when you are done. Sep 11, 2013
Wally   Denver
Has anyone done this route in recent years? I had the fortune to get this really tough line many years ago. I spoke with the stud climbing ranger a couple of years ago - he said Psychic Turbulence needed some gardening work, and hadn't been climbed in years.

True? Feb 12, 2014

i did it memorial day weekend 2003 (not too recently). it had some scruffiness then too. i think it just doesn't get done much, which is a pity, as it is a really good route. Feb 12, 2014
Great pitch and Mega stemming the whole way, But no real difficult moves. About half way you will encounter 2 bolts in succession, Maybe 15 feet apart. As of 10/5/2016 The left crack is clean while the right crack is semi vegetated, However almost all the protection for the route is in the left crack so the shrubbery does not get in the way at all. This route is incredibly fun and definetely not 11b more like soft 11a. The hanging belay at the top of the first "5.7" pitch is rather horrible while belaying the leader on the crux. This route is cool. Oct 5, 2016
Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
2nd pitch anchor and protection bolts on p2 have been replaced as of 8/2017 Sep 11, 2017

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