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Routes in North Face & Northwest Corner

Call Evita 911 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doldrums T C2+
Fourplay T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Friend of the Devil 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-
Klondike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Leaping Lizards T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy's North Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystic and the Mulchers T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Psychic Turbulance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleight of Hand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spiney Norman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whine and Bruises T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Carl Coy
Page Views: 2,042 total, 10/month
Shared By: Eric Sutton on Jul 31, 2001
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

"Whine and Bruises" is the crack between "Fourplay" and "Spiney Norman". It begins from the large heart shaped flakes. The second pitch is the crux and is one of the few climbs of its grade at the tower that is not pure stemming by an RP crack. It is fingers and small hands with an obvious crux but no slouch the rest of the way. Being a slightly bigger crack than most of the 5.12s tends to keep it less grassy even though it is not done a lot. The gear is good and the climbing is better.

Protection

Standard tower rack of small nuts to hand size.

Photos

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Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
 
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
 
An excellent, thought-provoking route, but contrary to the above description, Whine and Bruises is mostly stemming around a seam so tight that a good chunk of the route is protected by bolts because gear is unavailable. It features continuous thin stemming with few rests and tricky gear placements. 5 bolts and a pin grace the upper two-thirds of the route, with some marginal small gear in between. Sep 24, 2011