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Routes in North Face & Northwest Corner

Call Evita 911 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Doldrums T C2+
Fourplay T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Friend of the Devil 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-
Klondike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Leaping Lizards T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McCarthy's North Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystic and the Mulchers T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Psychic Turbulance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleight of Hand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spiney Norman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whine and Bruises T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1985 by Carl Coy and Mark Jacobs
Page Views: 899 total, 6/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on Apr 9, 2006
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route was done originally on aid by Frank Sanders and Dale Chamberlain.

P1: One of my favorite Tower pitches. Thin stemming provides the pump... and be sure your eyes are open wide for good placements. The anchors are out left after about 125 feet.

P2: Very thin crack climbing and a bit of route finding create the crux of the route. Watch for the "hidden hold" at mid pitch.

Protection

RP's, Full set of Stoppers, BD Camalots to #3 and a few shoulder length slings.

Photos

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Mostly cleaned as of 7/15/16. Enough to place small gear and finish the route safely anyway. Watch out for loose rock out far right on the second half of the first pitch. Heads up to users of Zach and Rachael's brown Tower guidebook, the 'secret handhold' on their topo is on the second pitch. Jul 18, 2016
I think this route is pg-13 or R rated- 20 feet of dihedral stemming with no pro, with a fall landing you on the slabby terrain below. Sep 3, 2012
Alex Andrews  
 
One of my favorites, thin fingers and stemming, good pro but small wires, Apr 7, 2009